主题[翻译]蘑菇滑雪技术指导 
 作者 常识 
 IP地址*.70.175.138 
 时间09-01-15 13:41:21
 

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英文原文:
http://www.mogulskiing.net/mogul_skiing_technique_guide.html

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蘑菇滑雪技术指导
内容
前言
1.在上蘑菇之前:基本站姿和技术
2.你的双眼:总是比你的双脚快一拍
3.静止的上半身
4.小弯回转
5.选择一条路线
6.胫骨压力,挺直站姿,臀部向前
7.开始吸收和伸展
8.瞄准蘑菇的哪个位置
9.吸收和伸展:再论
10.手臂位置和点杖
11.速度控制
12.主动性,竞技性的滑行
13.遇到瓶颈时该怎么办
14.忘掉你前面看到的内容。。。
15.别忘了平整雪道
16.装备
17.更多的内容(怎样到更高的水平)

1. 在你撞上蘑菇之前
一些在你雄心勃勃的准备走进“拉链路”之前的基本站姿和技术,有了这些技术和意见,你会更舒服一点。
首先,在认真的进入蘑菇场地之前,你必须在平整的雪道已经是一个稳定的中级水平滑雪者。这是为了你的安全!
你需要马上知道的是正确的蘑菇滑雪的身体姿势。这是你在所有滑雪中都会用到的基本站姿,不论滑蘑菇还是非蘑菇。这么说是因为,如果你认真的开始滑蘑菇,在你完全掌握了相关技术之前,你要和暂时和高山刻滑(CARVING)技术和竞技回转技术做一个分割。你从学习开始就要用相同的技术滑平道和蘑菇道。

最基本的站姿,你要做到的就是在蘑菇界的一个口头禅“堆叠(stacked)“。这里的意思是你的脚尖,膝盖和肩膀在一条线上,就是一个叠在一个上面。如果你做的正确,你会觉得你的胫骨对雪鞋前鞋舌的持续的压力(在滑行时要保持之中压力。你要很适应这种姿势??这决定了你在蘑菇上的成败。事实上我要说,你得把这变成一种本能。理解我得意思了么?以这种堆叠的姿势滑行能使你的雪板保持在你身下,而不是伸出到你前面去。

另一个正确的蘑菇滑雪的关键是收紧的站姿。还一个说法,作为蘑菇滑雪者,我们滑雪时的雪板要比那些刻滑的滑雪者靠的更近。我个人滑雪时,脚踝基本是贴着的。你要采用这种姿势,或者也可以稍微宽一点点。一个基本的规则是,你站姿不能大于10厘米(雪鞋之间的空隙)。这样能帮助你在蘑菇上保持平衡,并能在吸收蘑菇时让两只雪板同时起作用。

窍门:
最好的熟悉这种堆叠姿势的方法是在平道上做练习。如果你一个雪季滑20天以上,最好能花3天以上的时间在中级道或一钻平道上练习这种堆叠式站姿。
试着只用脚踝/膝盖/臀部的转角(不要像一般高山滑雪那样转动臀部和肩膀)来完成中弯回转。提示:在做这些回转时有一些滑动(搓雪)也是没问题的。
如果你越来越熟悉这种回转,就可以用同样的技术做更快的短半径回转。

如果你一个雪季只有有限的时间滑雪,那么学习蘑菇滑雪就是一项很有挑战的任务。不用烦恼,如果能在平道上掌握这种站姿,你就为自己上蘑菇做了很好的准备。一旦你掌握这种姿势,你在蘑菇上会进步很快的。请记住,如果你在一个雪季里没有很多滑雪时间的话,也不要匆忙的跳过而不练。当你花了时间正确的练习它后,你会在最后得到更多的乐趣。如果你急进的话,你会受到伤害。

2.你的双眼:总是比你的双脚快一拍
在众多的休闲蘑菇滑雪者(甚至是一些专业人士)里的一个普遍的问题是他们的视线。当你处于蘑菇中,你要始终看着至少前面3到4个包。你的头要始终是抬起的,看着前方,而不是看着脚下面。如果你只是看着脚下,你怎么可能为马上就要到来的做准备。滑蘑菇的一半的内容是为将要到来的蘑菇(或其他障碍物)做准备。如果你能看到下面的3到4个蘑菇,你就能计划(经常是下意识的)在真正遇到蘑菇时要怎么做。你会滑的更流畅,你能对下面的要遇到的一切作出准备。如果有只雪杖躺在你的路线上,你能及时的改变路线。如果你前面的人摔倒了,你也可以不用扑上去。如果你的路线是不规则的,你也不会因为一个突然出现的蘑菇而惊讶。

向前看是安全和流畅的蘑菇滑雪的关键。首先,你可能会对看不到你脚下的情况而不适应。实际上,你已经见过这些蘑菇了(在几个包之前),你已经知道那里有些什么了。你可能会觉得,如果你没有仔细研究脚下的情况,你的脚可能不知道怎么办。完全错误!你的脚,腿,鞋和雪板能自己做到的比你想象的多得多。

窍门:
先从简单得来,先在中级的平道上练习。选一段合适雪道不停止的滑下去,在最末端选一个物体作为焦点,一颗树或是别的什么东西。在你滑下的过程中始终将视线放在选定的目标上,要用堆叠的站姿做小半径回转。一直要练到你完全适应向前看。
然后,在一片低高度的蘑菇道上练习,最好是一半蘑菇,一半平道,这样的话你可以随时滑出。开始的时候可以看到前面一个蘑菇,当你已经适应了,就练习看2个,3个或4个包。如果你能看5个或更多的包,你就更强了。这肯定对的进步有帮助。

3. 静止的上半身
要在蘑菇上取得成功,要看上去是一个流畅的蘑菇滑雪者,你需要具备一种平静的上半身。这就是说你的下半身(雪板,雪鞋,膝盖,腿,臀部,等等)要完成所有的动作,你的上半身要尽可能保持静止。当然,你的手要在点杖时做一点动作,这个我们在后面会讨论。

当你在蘑菇路线中滑行时,你要转动雪板,吸收冲击,上下移动,甚至会偶尔要跳几下。你蘑菇上滑的时间越长,你要尽可能保持臀部以上的身体任何部分都是静止的。你的肩膀要始终是平对着滚落线。这样能使你整个身体流畅和正确的滑下滚落线。你看电视里的专业人士们,他们就像是飞下蘑菇道,回转和吸收都非常快,但是他们的上半身都保持稳定和静止,从滚落线上直下。

任何多余的上半身的动作都会在蘑菇上造成麻烦。会造成你重心的移动和失去平衡。这会影响你的吸收和伸展的有效性。静止的上半身=蘑菇上的成功。
这些和前面的内容都是相关的。保持上半身稳定会帮助你抬起头,看着滚落线。同样,看着几个包之前并将视线放在滚落线上也能帮助你保持上半身稳定和站直。

窍门:
就像前几章一样,练习的地方都是平道。从中级的雪道上直滑下。将你的视线集中在滚落线的下方,做快速的短半径回转。注意保持你的上半身静止,不要随着你的雪板转动你的肩膀。练习这种技术的一个好办法是,仍然选一个目标,这次不只是要看着它而是要滑向它,平行抬起你的胳膊(肘部90度弯曲),一边胳膊在一边的眼睛前,向这选定的目标滑去,要保持目标始终在两个胳膊中间。要像平常一样做回转,但是要记得保持上半身静止以使目标处于俩个手臂中间。提示:在做这个练习时不用雪杖会更有帮助。


4. 小弯回转
小弯回转对蘑菇滑雪的重要性在于两个方面的原因。首先是你在蘑菇上做的回转都是小弯回转,这是因为你遇到的95%的蘑菇都是距离相对比较近的。蘑菇的距离一般都近的没有足够的空间去做出典型的刻滑高山式回转(这一点是蘑菇滑雪最大的罪恶)。其次,在平整雪道上的小弯回转和蘑菇上的小弯回转具有几乎一样的动作,这就使滑雪者在平整雪道上有实际练习蘑菇滑雪技术的机会。

要让在平整雪道上练习的小弯回转有意义,你要采用我们在前几章里所讨论的蘑菇滑雪的堆叠式站姿并且要保持上半身的静止。当你开始滑下,你要做出快速的回转,转动你的脚和脚踝的同时,将你的膝盖扭向下一个回转的角度并伸展。,在下一个弯重复这些动作。在脚和脚之间,一个弯和一个弯之间的切换要尽量保持持续的立刃。换刃要保证尽可能的平滑,从一个弯到下一个弯的动作要流畅。这就是虽然我们在谈论蘑菇滑雪尽量避免说到一个词,你这里所做出的动作实际上就是“蘑菇刻滑”。你在立刃的同时,板尾是和板头走过了同样的路线。你实际上是在做一种刻滑回转(虽然是一种蘑菇上的刻滑)。

每一种小弯回转都要涉及到一定的立刃,但是有少许的滑动(搓雪)也是可以的。实际上,根据雪况的不同,要完全避免滑动(搓雪)是不可能的。你要尽可能的做的就是立刃和刻滑(蘑菇)。
你可以用立刃的时间和力度来控制你的速度。在做非常小的小弯回转时,你要在雪板刚刚转过滚落线的时候就开始转换到下一个回转,这样能让你走一条更直的线路并且滑的更快。
你在做每一个回转的时候要特别注意的一点是,要把重心转移到山下板上。在蘑菇和平道上一样,你都要确保将重量放在山下板上。

窍门:
最好的实践方法就是“多练习”。不断的改变你的立刃和滑行速度。可能从大弯开始,然后逐渐的缩小回转半径直到你做出很小弯的回转,然后再慢慢变回大弯回转。持续练习直到你能很自如的做出小弯回转。

在你练习的时候,一定要记住把头抬起来并保持上身的静止。
最有效的将重心保持在山下板的方法就是犁式练习,就像你刚开始学滑雪一样。如果你还不熟悉这种回转,将你的雪板摆成犁式的姿势( / \ ), 然后滑降,要向左转的时候,保持左侧雪板的姿势,将右侧的雪板向左边转动,同时转动你的右膝并将重量放在山下(右)板上( | \ )。向右转就刚好时相反的动作( / | )。当你在转向时,你在胯部会有压缩的感觉。犁式回转能把山下板承重变成你的一个本能。


5. 选择路线
蘑菇滑雪者最常问的一个问题是:“在蘑菇道上我要从哪里滑下?如何选择一条滑行路线?”最简单的答案当然就是“从滚落线滑下”。但是这个答案对于一个正在蘑菇道上试图做出合理选择的新手是没有帮助的。

当你来到一个蘑菇道的上面,先花一点时间观察一下蘑菇,看看哪里有亮冰,摔倒的滑雪者,等等。选择一条能避开任何危险的路线。如果你滑的是很规则的蘑菇道(用压雪机和造包机修出来的蘑菇),那你的滑行路线就在你面前。同样,在天然的蘑菇道上如果是只有蘑菇专业人士滑过,那么路线也会很清晰的沿滚落线向下。然而,你可能会遇到的99%的天然蘑菇都不会是直线,都可能有一些不规则的蘑菇。

在天然蘑菇道里,你要理解的最重要的一点是你不能让雪沟或蘑菇的排列来决定你的滑行路线。作为一个蘑菇滑雪者,我们最主要的追求就是以尽可能直的路线来滑下滚落线。所以,在你选择路线时,尽量选择一条规则的路线,但是在你滑行时,要将不规则的地形吸收掉并保持在直下的路线上。有时你可能会遇到几乎能把你吸进去的深沟,你有俩个选择:滑过去,或是在它上面做个回转转到下一个蘑菇上去。尽量不要做的是:为了避开一个不规则蘑菇或深沟而改变你的路线。这会使你的滑行不能连续,你要经常的停下来重新选择路线。当然,在遇到无法避开的障碍时,也可以调整路线,但是要尽量使滑行流畅。

当你滑的蘑菇越多,你选择路线就会越自如。当你完全掌握了这书里所讨论的技术,你就会发现你已经不用去选择路线,你不用想就会从合理的路线上滑下。

对很多蘑菇滑雪者来说,有一个问题是他们花了太多时间在选择路线上。有的人会去详细规划路线上的前10几个回转。这是不必要的。这里面最大的问题是,如果你规划了15个回转,但是如果你在第7个回转失误了,你就会完全乱掉节奏。另一个问题就是,如果你在每一个蘑菇位置上规划你的回转,你就变成让地形来决定你的路线。

另一个许多蘑菇滑雪者的本能是,当他们遇到一个新的直壁时总是停下来并选择一条新的路线。很多蘑菇道都有一些直壁或平坡,如果你每次遇到直壁都停下来选择新路线只会使滑降变的更复杂。保持朝向滚落线??你能做到!当你遇到很危险的雪道情况,当你的心跳已经到了极限,当你几乎不能呼吸时??这时你才能停下来。保持你的滚落线路线,让别人嫉妒去吧!

在这个方面没有什么窍门,要进步的唯一方法就是多滑。



6. 胫骨压力,挺直站姿,臀部向前
如果你是以正确的堆叠姿势在滑蘑菇时,这些都是很自然做到的。但是,这里面的每一部分都是足够重要的。臀部前向的挺直站姿保证了你对雪鞋前舌的持续压力,这就能让你在有控制的顺滑的滑过滚落线,看上去像是一个专业人士。

从语言组织上得方便,我们按顺序来说。胫骨压力,就是在你的胫骨和雪鞋前舌上保持持续的压力。这个并不是说要你用最大的力去压,而是要在100%的时间里保持这种接触和压力,无论是滑蘑菇还是非蘑菇。这样能帮助你保持堆叠的站姿,能帮助你驱动板头越过蘑菇,能让你的膝盖保持在正确位置来自如的吸收和伸展。一旦你发现你失去了这种对鞋舌的压力,你要做的就是尽力去重建这种压力。

“挺直站姿”,我的意思是你要确认,在你滑行的时候要保持背部挺直,同时保持胫骨压力。如果在滑行时你有驼背或弯腰或蜷体,你就可能会导致你的背部或颈部受伤,同时你也会移动你的重心并失去平衡,这样就失去了你的堆叠式站姿,你也就失去了控制速度的能力,吸收和伸展也就变得困难了。虽然这只是相对的“直”,但是你一定要意识到你的背部是否是挺直的还是弯曲的。

许多蘑菇滑雪者需要克服的一个问题是他们的臀部太靠后而导致的后坐,后坐会导致你的雪板向前窜出,你也就失去了控制,也会导致你本能的蜷身。努力使臀部向前的最好办法就是想像你是由你的臀部带着滑向山下。当然你不会想让你的臀部跑到你身体前面去,但是你要练习这样去想像。尽力使你的臀部向前并保持在那。我有很多方法来形容臀部向前的动作,但是考虑到这个网站是为所有年龄段的蘑菇滑雪者开放,所以我们还是要注意一点。

窍门:
就像前面的内容里已经多次提到的,练习臀部前向的合适地点还是平整雪道。选一小段中等间距的中级雪道,用小弯回转滑下,要始终注意保持胫骨压力,挺直站姿和驱动臀部向前。你要把这些变成你滑雪时的第二本能。当你练习的足够多了,这些已经成为你的本能的时候,一旦你失去胫骨压力,或是开始蜷体,或者感觉到臀部后坐,你自己不需要任何思考就会自动做出调整来修正错误。

7. 开始吸收和伸展(A&E)
吸收和伸展(A&E)就是说滑雪者要成为冲击吸收器--就是滑雪者在遇到一个蘑菇时吸收并在向下一个蘑菇伸展腿的动作,在整个滑行过程中需要不停的重复这个动作。这是一个正确的蘑菇回转里必然的组成部分。吸收和伸展似乎是在蘑菇技术中讨论的最多的。不幸的是,很多人在强调吸收和伸展的同时却忘记了在这项运动里其他同样重要的部分。如果你跳过其他部分只关注吸收和伸展,以为吸收和伸展就是你全部需要学习的,那你还是算了吧。相信我,如果你认真学习了前面讲过的内容,你就做了对自己最有利的事。没有前面所讨论的基础,吸收和伸展就是毫无意义的。真的,这里我是很严肃的。

吸收和伸展是蘑菇滑雪者最突出的特点。人们通过观察专业人士的滑行就会发现他们的膝盖就像弹簧,自然的就把吸收和伸展和蘑菇滑雪联系在一起。很多人会认为他们永远也做不到这样。事实上,你能做到。吸收和伸展是很重要,但是它并不比你在蘑菇上要用到的其他技术更难。只要苦练,你也能成为专业人士。

吸收和伸展的理由就像是汽车的减震器:它能在巨大的应力下保护运动主体(也就你自己)。吸收和伸展能帮助保持上半身的静止,能减少冲击和伤害,它能让你沿滚落线滑降,并且看上去很流畅。吸收和伸展同样能保护你的膝盖。很多人都认为蘑菇滑雪对膝盖有损害。这是错的!尽管在任何滑雪运动中都存在对膝盖的潜在伤害,但是蘑菇滑雪并不比高山滑雪更危险。这是因为我们吸收掉了蘑菇的冲击,不会对膝盖造成撞击。认真的说,正确的蘑菇滑雪要比跑上楼梯更省膝盖。在70,80和90年代初期,很多发烧的蘑菇滑雪者由于”蘑菇撞击“而导致的膝盖损伤退出了这项运动,但是,当今的专业人士和蘑菇发烧友比起前辈已经很少出现膝盖问题了。现在对膝盖最大的危险是来自不正确的起跳后落地动作。

吸收和伸展也是在蘑菇滑雪中主要的控制速度的方法。结合有效的立刃,吸收和伸展能让滑雪者保持对速度的控制。通过调整回转的幅度,立刃的压力,再结合吸收和伸展,你就可以调整你滑行的速度。每一次你吸收一个蘑菇,都是对你的速度的检验。这就是为什么蘑菇滑雪者在蘑菇直下滚落线上却比平道的滑雪者控制的更好的原因。

很多蘑菇滑雪者,甚至是专业人士,都会对吸收动作存在误解。他们以为吸收就是将膝盖拉向你的下巴(或是一种下坐的动作),这些是不正确的。坐在椅子上,试着把你的膝盖抬向你的下巴,你的重心在哪?你的重心已经跑到你的脚后面去了。将膝盖抬向你下巴的吸收动作会马上使你后坐,这是任何蘑菇滑雪者都不想的。

正确的吸收动作这样:随着你的板尖接触到蘑菇,就要开始用膝盖来吸收蘑菇,身体重量要放在前脚掌上,在板尖接近蘑菇顶的过程中尽力将板尖压向雪中。在这样做的时候,你会感觉到你的脚踝被拉向你的臀部,而不是膝盖被抬向下巴。一定,一定,一定要保持胫骨压力。这样能让你保持站姿和平衡,你也能为下一个蘑菇做好准备。在你的重心向后轻微移动时,你的雪板也是在同样的运动,因为你的脚踝是向着重心在运动。实质上,你是在调整着你的前后平衡。虽然有着很明显的垂直方向的膝盖运动,但是这不是由抬起膝盖造成,而是将脚踝向后向上拉而造成的。一个有追求的蘑菇滑雪者总是尽可能的使雪板接触雪面,你也要尽量使你的板头压向雪里(当然在一个深粉雪的日子里一定要小心)。

很多人认为伸展远不如吸收重要,这又是错的。在吸收一个蘑菇后,充分的伸展是一个蘑菇小弯回转的关键组成部分。如果你要充分吸收下一个蘑菇,你就需要充分的伸展。

在实际练习时,可以用三包法:以尽量直的路线撞上第一个蘑菇(先假定蘑菇在你的左侧),在你接近包顶的过程中尽量充分的吸收,同时要保持重量放在前脚掌上并将板头压向雪面(这就使你的脚跟朝向你的臀部运动)。在吸收并越过这个蘑菇后,迅速将你的雪板左转并向着下一个蘑菇充分伸展,当你的板头离开雪面,你也就开始越过第二个蘑菇,尽量充分的吸收,然后向着第三个蘑菇做右向回转并充分的伸展。不断的重复练习这些动作。

不管你是如何滑蘑菇,这个方法都是最基本的,只是为了学习的方便而放慢了滑降的速度。在“瞄准蘑菇的什么位置”这章后面,我们还会重新讨论吸收和伸展以及你如何来完善这些技术。

窍门:
虽然我不愿意承认,但是体验吸收和伸展的最好的方法还是从一条中级蘑菇道的滚落线上滑下。先慢速从滚落线滑下,吸收每一个你越过的蘑菇,伸展你的雪板,不断的重复这些动作。滑行的时候,可以试着将雪板指向滚落线多一点,很快你就能以有效的吸收和伸展来滑降整条雪道。

8. 瞄准蘑菇的哪个位置
如果你已经真正掌握了前面几章里讨论的技术,那你就已经开始真正体会到蘑菇的美妙之处。现在你会想滑的更快一点,并且看上去更好。这里的关键就是你的雪板头瞄准下个蘑菇的哪个位置。当你以慢速滑蘑菇时。你的雪板通常会大幅度的转过滚落线,如果你要滑的更快更直,你就要调整这些。



作为一个WC风格的蘑菇滑雪者,我们要瞄准蘑菇上一个特定的位置,这个点不是包顶,也不是包侧面的中间点,而是蘑菇前角的几寸上方的位置。因为我们在讨论的是一个圆型的物体,所以“角”这个概念从技术上讲是不存在的。可能花图更有帮助。下面的图是三个不同的滑雪者滑下同一条路线。第一个是最慢的,第二个是中速,第三个就是WC风格的快速“拉链路线“。

拉链路线就是我们要在保证控制的前提下以最直的线路滑下滚落线。有时如果你感觉速度快要失控了也可以将雪板更多的转离滚落线以减速,但是一定要努力保持这条直下路线。让雪板去滑行,你要吸收掉你面前的任何东西。


一定要把第3幅图和很多人所说的“滑沟底”区分开。第3图画的是一条非常直的滑降路线,但是雪板却是始终和蘑菇接触的,并没有在”沟底滑行“。WC滑法绝不是走沟底,而是要在蘑菇上找到正确的位置。虽然图上画的是一条几乎完美的直路线,但是你在蘑菇道里不会经常遇到的。目标就是滑出你的直下路线,不管有什么东西在你面前。

这里的意思是在你滑蘑菇时,有时你可能在蘑菇的高位,有时在低位,有时你可能发现自己在沟底,也可能你上到了包顶,只要你在沿着滚落线滑下,你就是对的。但是,只要蘑菇允许,就一定要将雪板瞄准蘑菇的山上侧的包角。

练习的方法只有一个,就是到蘑菇道上将你的雪板瞄向蘑菇角上方几寸的位置。这是一个渐近的练习过程。开始的时候可以先瞄向蘑菇中间偏上的位置,然后在你适应的速度下逐渐降低瞄准的位置。这需要很多时间去练习。不要放弃,你能做到!


9. 吸收和伸展:再论
现在你已经瞄准了正确的位置,走了蘑菇里更直更快的路线,我们就需要再来说一下如何更有效的吸收和伸展。

随着你滑的更快,吸收和伸展的动作就要做的更快更自动化。在这种情况下,你要在撞到包之前就开始吸收动作,当你到达你瞄准的最高点,你就要完全的吸收这个蘑菇,下压你的雪板并将重量压在前脚掌。继续转向下一个蘑菇,充分的吸收,重复这样的过程。

如果蘑菇不是很大,你就不必要做太大的吸收。这里我要警告你的是,有一种错误就是过份吸收。充分的吸收蘑菇并不是要你强迫自己做出额外的吸收动作。用这个时间去向下个蘑菇做伸展动作。记住一定要保持持续的胫骨压力,尽量保持上半身的静止。



10. 手臂位置和点杖
高质量的蘑菇滑雪的一个关键是你的手臂位置和你的点杖。在你滑蘑菇时,一定要保持双手在前方,就像端了一个盘子,双手分开肩膀宽度的距离。在滑行时,你要想像你的手在驱动你向前。不要让你的手拖下来。保持双手前伸并分开肩膀宽度的距离,就像你在滑正常的高山滑雪时一样。

滑蘑菇点杖的全部内容就是关于时机和轻点。在回转时,杖一定不能用做承重。事实上,如果你点杖正确,这就是简单的手腕的弹动动作。同时,你的胳膊和肩膀以及上半身都要保持静止。

在你滑蘑菇时,点杖要点在每个蘑菇的背面(山下侧)。在讨论蘑菇点杖的时候,耐心真是一个优点。你不会想点到蘑菇正面(山上侧),这会使你失去平衡,在你吸收并准备滑向下一个蘑菇时将你的手拖后。也不要点在包顶,这是因为这会使你试图去够包顶并且也会使你的手拖后。你要瞄准的位置是蘑菇山下侧靠中间的位置。许多蘑菇滑雪者(甚至是有的专业人士)都有点杖的时机问题。你要有足够的耐心来等待最好的时机,在这个时间点上你可以不费力的点到蘑菇的山下侧。实际上就是,在你转向下一个回转的轴转点上用用简单的手腕动作轻点你的雪杖。再说一遍,不要把重量放在杖上。点杖不是用来控制速度的。

这里没什么窍门可以提供给你。开始练习的时候要慢速的滑下,保证每次点杖都是在正确的时间和正确的地点。耐心是关键。慢慢提高你的速度,很快这就会像其他蘑菇滑行技术一样成为你的本能。熟能生巧!!


11. 速度控制
速度控制在前面的内容已经提到过。在蘑菇上控制速度有俩个方法:吸收和伸展,回转的大小和立刃。

在你吸收一个蘑菇的时候,你的速度在吸收的过程里自然的就损失掉了。你吸收的幅度越深,你就越多对速度的控制。我们通常不会单独采用吸收和伸展来减速。但是在你滑蘑菇的时候正确的使用吸收和伸展,它能帮助你控制速度,甚至你都不用去想它。

另一个控制速度的方法是调整回转的半径和立刃的力量。你的雪板转过滚落线越多(你完成的回转的弧线越长),你失去的速度越多。同样,你立刃的力量越大,你减速的效果越好。

假设雪况和路线都很好,你就不需要调整你的回转来减速,你可以走拉链路线直下。然而,在实际滑蘑菇时会遇到各种问题,所以你要知道如何减速来连续并正确滑蘑菇,这很重要。

12. 主动性,竞技性的滑降
滑好蘑菇的一个关键是你要滑的有主动性和竞技性。这并不是说你必须滑的很快。这里的意思是你要具有强烈的欲望在推动你去努力的有激情的滑,无惧你面前的任何东西。

当你在一条蘑菇路线上,滑的太过谨慎和保守对你没有意义。你要以一个坚定的目标去滑,尽你自身最大能力。你在试图将雪板放的更直或是偶尔需要跳过一个蘑菇时,不要胆怯。你要推动自己不断的朝滚落线向下,要无惧的吸收掉你路线上的任何东西(当然要在没有危险情况下)。胆怯会使你远离蘑菇。要做到主动性,竞技性,要坚定!如果你把这些和前面讲过的技术结合在一起,理所当然的你就会成为一个伟大的蘑菇滑雪者。

需要始终记住的一点是:不要疯狂。主动性的滑行不是说你要滑的快的失去控制,这根本就不是主动性的滑法。滑的太快是很危险的,不只是对你,也是对你周围的滑雪者。如果你用头撞凹了缆车柱,上帝是不会让你进天堂的。最严肃的说,控制是滑蘑菇最重要的部分。如果你失去了控制,你就不是在正确和安全的滑雪。要有主动性,不要害怕速度快一点,但是要始终保持着控制。


13. 遇到瓶颈怎么办
就像其他的运动,你很可能会发现自己遇到一些瓶颈。我们在蘑菇上遇到的一些瓶颈很有意思。最重要的是你要知道怎么去解决问题,并尽可能的保持进步。

一个蘑菇滑雪者最常遇到的问题是后坐或失去平衡。在这些情况下,关键还是保持前压。当你的重心已经到板尾的时候,不要试图去减速或停下,这样你只会摔倒。如果遇到真正严重的情况而你不得不立刻停下时,那就摔倒吧。作为蘑菇滑雪者,我们的目标是尽可能的变不可能为可能,我们要尽力的保持和重获正确的姿势。所以,如果你一旦发现你自己在朝板尾后坐或是失去了平衡,就要尽可能的使你的臀部和双手向前。不断的向前,向前,向前。你最后会发现自己重新得到了平衡和控制,你会像一个专业人士一样滑行在路线中。

如果你的速度快的已经无法用11节中讨论的技术来减速,那你就需要在一系列的蘑菇上做出多个弯比较大的回转来减速。如果你还是不能安全和有控制的做到这些,那你就得向你侧面尽量安全和有控制得摔倒。在你已经不能控制速度时候不要试图去继续滑行,有的人无疑会受伤。你要尽力去停下来。一旦你停下来,花一点时间去想想为什么速度加快。试着用前面讨论过的技术来解决发现的问题。在你试图停下来的时候,不要在转向的同时将你的背靠向板尾,这是更糟糕的情况,你的雪板会向你前方窜出,你会用你的背部重重的落地。这真的很不好。

最后我们要讨论的难题是失去了路线。有时当我们失去控制或是遇到什么不能克服的障碍,我们会离开我们的路线或是停下来。如果你能重新获得控制,那就尽量不要停,在新的路线中连续的滑下去。就像前面提到的,尽量前压。如果你已经完全失去控制,那就停下来再找一条新路线。当然,如果你在比赛,你肯定是不想离开你的路线。

有无数的陷入困难境地的可能。最基本的法则是:如果你还能控制或是还能安全的重获控制,尽力前压。如果你失去了控制,而且无法重获控制,那你就停下来并且要想出来是什么原因导致你失去了控制,然后根据你的结论来做出调整。

14.忘掉你前面看到的内容。。。
现在你已经学到了关于蘑菇滑雪的所有知识。你要准备去练习学到的这一切。当你站在蘑菇道顶上,这么多的内容涌进你的脑袋,你不可能滑的好。太多的滑雪者试图同时关注太多的方面。所以在你练习这些技术时,慢慢来,一次只关注一件事,不要去想其他的事,先把你现在练的掌握好。当一项技术已经变成你的本能,再去练下一个技术,这时你已经不需要再去考虑前一个技术,它已经变成本能了。

15. 不要忘记平整雪道
另一个简短但是非常重要的部分。这也是我自己最有问题的方面。

虽然把整天的时间都花在蘑菇上是非常有乐趣,但是如果你真的想在蘑菇滑雪上进步,你就要平均分配在蘑菇和平道上的时间。你在蘑菇上要运用的大多数技术都可以在平道上练习。当你出去滑雪时,先在平道上练习前面讨论的各种技术,然后再到蘑菇上实践你在平道上练习的技术,这是学习蘑菇滑雪的唯一正确的方法。即使是专业人士们花在平道上的时间也远远超出了你的想像。


16. 装备
你当然可以用任何雪板任何雪鞋任何雪杖去滑蘑菇,这只是给你自己增加了困难而已。为了加快你的学习进度,你需要在装备上做一些投资。如果你对蘑菇滑雪是认真的,你就没有太多的选择。

雪板。最好你能买一副蘑菇专用板。这种板通常没有很深的切边,脚下部分会很窄,硬度会是中等或偏软。它们是专为优化蘑菇滑行技术而设计制造的。现在市场上的蘑菇专用板有:K2 Mamba, K2 Cabrawler, Volkl Rebellion, Volkl Dragonslayer, Dynastar Twister, Salomon 1080 Mogul, Rossignol Scratch Mogul, Hart F17, Fischer Lunar, Head Supermogul, Head Mojo Mogul。你在这个网站上能找到这里许多雪板的资料和评论。通常一副高质量的比赛级的蘑菇板价格在250到700美金。我保证他们值得这样的价钱。一旦你用上,就放不下了。

雪鞋。蘑菇滑雪者通常需要一双中等硬度的雪鞋。雪鞋要足够软以利于吸收动作,同时也要有足够的硬度能准确的将脚上的力传递到雪板上。我个人墙裂推荐你去找一个雪鞋专家,为你的脚做准确的调整。

蘑菇滑雪的雪杖要比其他的双板高山滑雪方式的更短一些。按照一般的雪杖选择方法确定了你的雪杖长度后,再减去7-12厘米就是你滑蘑菇用的雪杖。

再说固定器:避免使用有垫板的固定器。在蘑菇上,我们要尽量的接近雪面,垫板没有任何帮助。尽量买一副轻的,坚固的,高性能的固定器。任何一款高质量的无垫板固定器都是你滑蘑菇的好选择。



17. 其他(如何更进一步)
找真正的蘑菇教练
参加专门的蘑菇滑雪训练营
加入一支蘑菇滑雪队。要找到真正教你WC风格技术的蘑菇教练。我个人反对参加一些滑雪学校的个人蘑菇滑雪教学课程,除非教练员是前职业运动员或专业蘑菇教练。有些地方有专业的蘑菇教练员,但是不幸的是,这很少。

其他一些有价值的资料:
"Everything the Instructors Never Told You About Mogul Skiing" 作者:Dan DiPiro.
这是一本很好的蘑菇滑雪的入门书。这本书里的风格和今天的WC风格相比,有点过时,但是仍然有一定的意义。DiPiro是一位80年代的高水平蘑菇比赛运动员。

"Newschool: Skiing's Next Generation" 作者: David Babic, Gerhard, Armin Blochl.
这本书是一本出色的关于空中技巧的和其他一些自由式滑雪技术的指导书。


祝你好运!蘑菇上见!



对于蘑菇滑雪存在着很多误解,而其中很多不正确的信息是由一些“教学指导”录像和书以及PSIA的基础蘑菇课程,还有互联网传播出来的。这里要为你澄清这些误解

1.世界杯风格(WC style)的蘑菇滑雪对你的膝盖很不好
绝对的错误!!!现代的WC风格技术,实际上对你的膝盖影响很小。使用臀部,膝盖和脚踝结合在一起的正确的回转技术,再加上吸收和伸展,蘑菇滑雪对膝盖的伤害要比你在街上慢跑更小。

2.有一些组织在向滑雪者传播一些信息:WC风格的蘑菇滑雪是要“撞包”,而且还是老式的直板技术
在10年前,WC技术的蘑菇滑雪确实涉及到一定程度的“撞包”。但是,今天的技术已经非常的顺滑没有任何的“撞包”(前提是你做的正确),而且也绝对不是直板技术。事实上,你在这个网站上看到的蘑菇滑雪指导,你会发现WC技术的蘑菇回转里有很大的一部分是关于立刃(刻滑)。
下面是2006年的国际雪联蘑菇滑雪裁判手册的内容。这就是WC蘑菇滑雪技术:
“回转:有4个方面需要考虑
滚落线:
沿滚落线滑降就是从出发到结束要走一条最短的路线。要在这一项里得到最高分,比赛选手要在出发后保持在一条选定的滚落线上。

刻滑:
在刻滑中,滑雪者的臀部要跟随中心线(臀部不能有侧向的运动)。双腿要并紧。通过结合臀部-膝盖-脚踝之间的反弓,回转必须是有控制的刻滑回转。刻滑是时机正确的重心转换。当雪板的板尾和板头走过相同的轨迹时,就是刻滑回转。

吸收和伸展:
滑雪者要通过吸收的动作来跟随雪包的形状。在越过雪包最高点时要正确的伸展。伸展动作也要跟随雪包的形状。在吸收和伸展的时候,雪板和雪面之间的压力要保持一致,在滑雪者向上运动时吸收,向下运动时要伸展。另外,滑雪者要主动的利用雪包去帮助回转,而不是等待雪包。

上半身:
头部要保持静止,面向山下。胸部要挺直并自然。手要以自然状态保持在身体前方。点杖要轻,只是手腕的向前动作。

这不不够清楚么?WC技术不是直板技术

3.同样是这些组织,要告诉你WC技术对于普通滑雪者只适用于中等间距的雪包道。他们认为你只能学习绕着雪包刻滑到包顶。他们不认为你能掌握WC技术。
再说一遍,这是一种榆木脑袋的观点。我相信你能掌握WC蘑菇技术,因为WC技术不只是从拉链路线上快速的滑下。WC蘑菇技术适合任何人,适合那些只是想在雪包上有所体验的休闲滑雪者,适合那些想滑的更好一些的蘑菇滑雪者,适合那些想成为专业人士的高级滑雪者,适合那些要走拉链路线的高手,也适合那些要在比赛中拿奖的专业运动员。

任何人都可以学习WC蘑菇技术,并且可以运用在任何包距任何雪况的任何雪道上。事实上,这已经被证明了是最有效最被接受的蘑菇技术。WC蘑菇技术是最适合滑蘑菇的技术。当你有最好的方法时,为什么要选其他的方法?如果你能成为一个优秀的WC风格蘑菇滑雪者,你就能应付山上的任何雪况。Glen Plake曾经说过:“如果你要在山上找到最好的滑雪者,那你最好去看看有哪些人在滑蘑菇”。Plake也是一个WC风格滑雪者。。。你可以看看他的滑雪影片。有一些人在努力的学习WC技术,他们最终会成为最伟大的滑雪者。这是毫无疑问的。

4.WC蘑菇技术不适合“真正”蘑菇
有些人要你相信WC蘑菇技术不能用在真正的蘑菇上。他们吧“真正”的蘑菇定义为紧密的不规则的蘑菇。
这个误解是来自于滑行拉链路线就意味着是让蘑菇雪包去决定你的路线。这种理解是不正确的。在WC滑法里,拉链路线只是要尽量直的沿滚落线滑下。如果你学会了WC技术,你就不会再担心不规则的雪包地形,因为你已经能走直线的滑过去。你会发现不规则的蘑菇雪包很有乐趣。
WC技术对于任何间距的蘑菇道都是最合适最有效的技术。在陡坡上,你只需要调整你的回转弯的大小并加大吸收和伸展的动作幅度来控制速度。可以参看技术指导里的“速度控制”这一部分。

5.WC技术只适合年轻人
事实上,WC技术适合任何年龄段的人。许多人相信只有年轻人(30岁以下)才有能力和条件掌握WC技术。当然,一个40岁的人不太可能赢一个世界杯比赛。但是这并不意味他或她不能用WC技术来滑蘑菇。
这不关年龄的事,只是技术问题。没有哪一个部分的WC技术被证明过不适合某一个年龄段的人。事实上,我自己就和很多超过50岁的WC风格的蘑菇滑雪者一起滑雪。其中一些人已经滑了一辈子雪,有些只是刚刚开始。我还见过令人吃惊的超过60岁的蘑菇滑雪者在享受WC技术。

6.WC技术滑法只有一种滑降路线:拉链路线
虽然WC技术是最适合拉链路线,但是对于其他路线的滑法也是一种很好的控制速度的技术。WC滑法的技术也允许你在必要的时候改变滑行路线(像是有个狂人突然跳进你路线里,或是在你前面突然发现一块亮冰,等等)。如果做的动作正确,WC技术滑出来的就是一条拉链线路。但是这不是说你只能走一条拉链路线。

7.WC蘑菇技术就是要速度
在比赛中,速度是裁判给分的一个因素。但是WC技术是可以运用在你能控制的任何速度上。这不是一种只关注速度的技术。这是一种转动你的雪板和摆正你身体姿势的技术。事实上,效率,控制,以及各种技术的交织在慢速的滑降中更加明显。

8.要成为高水平WC蘑菇滑雪者需要一些特殊的窍门
冷酷的事实是,成为WC蘑菇高手要付出的努力和学习其他方式的滑雪技术是一样多(即使不是更多)。要掌握这个技术需要付出很大的努力。基础的技术可以学起来很快,但是一定要学的有效率。WC技术能够提供效率和控制,你要做的就是努力的去掌握它,要练习,练习,再练习!

9. 拉链路线滑法不是“真正”的滑雪
噢。。。你在开玩笑么?



未经译者许可,严禁用于商业目的!转载请注明来自绿野ORG!

这个贴子最后由 板蓝根 2009年01月21日 16:59:46 编辑


 

    
 主题谁都不许抢沙发~~~ 
 作者 板蓝根 
 IP地址*.143.133.77 
 时间09-01-15 13:49:47
 



////////////////////////////
“科学精神”是一种信仰!!
////////////////////////////

 

    
 主题强帖继续留名,兼控诉板头:) 
 作者 老工人 
 IP地址*.141.236.186 
 时间09-01-15 13:52:15
 



不荣不耻

 

    
 主题纳闷,常大侠是不是探宝队的,咋总能翻到好东西? 
 作者 老工人 
 IP地址*.141.236.186 
 时间09-01-15 13:57:07
 

http://www.lvye.org/modules/lvyebb/viewtopic.php?view=1&post_id=1329625

不荣不耻

 

    
 主题:)!~~~ 
 作者 金成 
 IP地址*.42.33.77 
 时间09-01-15 14:45:15
 


 

    
 主题大作又现。看来大家该向WC蘑菇滑雪技术进发了。 
 作者 雪语者 
 IP地址*.131.114.120 
 时间09-01-15 14:58:48
 


 

    
 主题60岁的人还能享受WC的技术 我有希望了 呵呵  
 作者 孤独的牧羊人 
 IP地址*.131.187.84 
 时间09-01-15 15:03:27
 


 

    
 主题抄收,强顶! 
 作者 红花梁 
 IP地址*.130.62.137 
 时间09-01-15 15:15:49
 



-----------------------------
Enjoy every day while you can

 

    
 主题WC技术。。去WC里面苦练技术 
 作者 泛蓝调调 
 IP地址*.0.29.226 
 时间09-01-15 15:30:37
 


 

    
 主题抄收慢慢看~ 
 作者 小小神女 
 IP地址*.116.70.202 
 时间09-01-15 16:16:15
 


 

    
 主题学习了,谢谢! 
 作者 大脑袋 
 IP地址*.241.187.5 
 时间09-01-15 18:21:48
 


 

    
 主题强贴留名,先顶再看 
 作者 坏坏的笑 
 IP地址*.128.202.2 
 时间09-01-15 20:10:20
 



《横渡履历》

别说我笑的坏,是你的心在作怪

 

    
 主题英文原作很经典,去年读了三遍;译文也很经典,认真读了一遍:D 
 作者 露水 
 IP地址*.130.45.132 
 时间09-01-15 20:48:31
 

常教授本身是偏爱MOGUL SKIING且刻苦操练陡坡MOGUL之高手,译作定然是“信、达、雅”的上乘精品。两年前,他创下了N十秒滑下那条“黑菱”MOGUL魔鬼道的记录(本人正好是当时掐表的见证人),至今无人能破。但常教授这两个雪季旅居上海无雪可滑,其他在京的学友有机可乘,MOGUL操练的雪时倍增,技艺更加精进。期望在本周末(2月18日)的上午传出那谁谁破常教授记录的佳音:)

这个贴子最后由 露水 2009年01月15日 20:55:28 编辑

 

    
 主题第一种挺好! 
 作者 星月牛仔 
 IP地址*.236.61.54 
 时间09-01-15 21:01:29
 





 

    
 主题大棒了!及时雨呀!我一口吃下去了,争取用一个雪季的时间把它消化吧! 
 作者 南方人 
 IP地址*.129.27.59 
 时间09-01-15 22:45:05
 



远方总有一种神秘的诱惑让你一次次归来又一次次启程!

 

    
 主题拜读,深刻! 
 作者 懒驴上磨 
 IP地址*.112.55.74 
 时间09-01-16 01:10:27
 



驴行天下,唯我独懒!

 

    
 主题玩WC技术会死人吧 
 作者 快乐风 
 IP地址*.118.207.79 
 时间09-01-16 09:36:03
 


 

    
 主题呵呵,“滑蘑菇毁膝盖”这个说法,这里已经强烈否定了,只有不正确的起跳后落地动作,才会威胁膝盖。所以要学习不能瞎滑。 
 作者 非常口令 
 IP地址*.203.157.220 
 时间09-01-16 12:04:38
 

吸收和伸展的理由就像是汽车的减震器:它能在巨大的应力下保护运动主体(也就你自己)。吸收和伸展能帮助保持上半身的静止,能减少冲击和伤害,它能让你沿滚落线滑降,并且看上去很流畅。吸收和伸展同样能保护你的膝盖。很多人都认为蘑菇滑雪对膝盖有损害。这是错的!尽管在任何滑雪运动中都存在对膝盖的潜在伤害,但是蘑菇滑雪并不比高山滑雪更危险。这是因为我们吸收掉了蘑菇的冲击,不会对膝盖造成撞击。认真的说,正确的蘑菇滑雪要比跑上楼梯更省膝盖。在70,80和90年代初期,很多发烧的蘑菇滑雪者由于”蘑菇撞击“而导致的膝盖损伤退出了这项运动,但是,当今的专业人士和蘑菇发烧友比起前辈已经很少出现膝盖问题了。现在对膝盖最大的危险是来自不正确的起跳后落地动作。

 

    
 主题这都是牛文啊 
 作者 spiritdancer 
 IP地址*.142.53.197 
 时间09-01-16 12:12:06
 

在牛年读牛文, 向牛人奔去

我是单词

 

    
 主题顶,收藏 
 作者 xsqt 
 IP地址*.217.176.81 
 时间09-01-16 12:51:57
 


 

    
 主题没错!所以我才强烈反对“跳包”这个词!! 
 作者 板蓝根 
 IP地址*.143.130.249 
 时间09-01-16 13:10:26
 


 

    
 主题学习、收藏、感谢! 
 作者 起点 
 IP地址*.142.128.148 
 时间09-01-16 14:17:04
 


 

    
 主题顶!感谢并收藏!正在仔细拜读研磨中,同时坐在办公室转椅上做辅助练习动作,边摆pose边体会。 
 作者 marina_ma 
 IP地址*.193.146.78 
 时间09-01-16 15:36:33
 


 

    
 主题写的真好,好文,好人 
 作者 昨夜听雪 
 IP地址*.237.253.66 
 时间09-01-16 16:52:26
 


 

    
 主题一字一句仔细看完了,顶常识!! 
 作者 中秋 
 IP地址*.130.62.203 
 时间09-01-16 21:26:38
 


 

    
 主题一个字: 
 作者 fjord边缘 
 IP地址*.221.127.5 
 时间09-01-16 23:03:50
 

非常是好!
 

    
 主题我们小蘑菇队员很幸福,我们的蘑菇师傅很强大,这个技术理论贴简直太棒了,谢谢常识,谢谢我耐心的蘑菇师傅们,我要认真钻研 
 作者 小十一格格 
 IP地址*.131.80.72 
 时间09-01-17 22:02:19
 

WC=world cup 世界杯? 这么简写好别扭

开心是福

 

    
 主题英文原文 
 作者 常识 
 IP地址*... 
 时间16-02-03 09:21:52
 

Mogul Skiing Technique Guide
Table of Contents

Preface
1. Before you Hit the Bumps: Basic Stance and Techniques
2. Your Eyes: Always One Step Ahead of Your Feet
3. Quiet Upper Body
4. Short Radius Turns
5. Picking a Line
6. Shin Pressure, Stand Tall, Hips Forward!
7. Beginning Absorption and Extension
8. Where to Aim on the Bump
9. Absorption and Extension: Revisited
10. Arm Position and Pole Plants
11. Speed Control
12. Aggressive, Athletic Skiing
13. What to Do in a Bind
14. Forget Everything You've Just Read (well... sort of)
15. Don't Forget the Groomers!
16. Gear
17. More Info (and how to get to the next level)

Before You Hit the Bumps: Basic Stance and Techniques Before you decide to go gung-ho in the zipper-line, there are some techniques and posture ideas with which you should become comfortable.
First of all, you should at least be a solid intermediate skier on groomed terrain before venturing too seriously into the bump fields. It’s for your own safety, I promise!
You should immediately get to know the appropriate mogul skiing native posture. This is the basic stance you will use in all of your skiing, in or out of the bumps. Speaking of which, it should be made known that if you are serious about skiing moguls, until you’ve mastered the techniques involved, you should take a brief hiatus from alpine carving and racing style skiing. You will need to ski the flats the same way you ski the bumps when you're learning.

In the native stance, you should be what folks in the mogul world call, “stacked.” This means that your feet, knees, and shoulders should make a line, and should all be stacked one top of the other. If you do this correctly, you should feel your shins putting solid pressure on your boot tongues (be sure to maintain this pressure while skiing). You need to become comfortable with this position -- it is absolutely crucial to your success in the bumps. In fact, I would go so far as to say that you need to be intimate with it. It needs to become second nature. Catch my drift? Skiing in a stacked posture will help to keep your skis under your body, and keep them from shooting out in front of you.

Another key to correct mogul skiing is a relatively tight stance. In other words, as mogul skiers, we ski with our skis much closer together than someone carving would. I personally ski with a stance so tight that my ankles are practically locked together. My ski tip corners are well shaven from crossing at the very tip. You could adopt this type of stance, or you could go for a slightly wider stance. A general rule of thumb would be to keep your stance no wider than about four or five inches (space between your boots). This helps you to keep balanced in the bumps, and helps your skis work together in absorbing the bumps.

Drills:

The best way to become comfortable with this stacked stance is to practice it on the groomers for hours. If you are a twenty or more days per season skier, devote three or more days to just practicing on intermediate and single-diamond groomed runs, always trying to keep yourself in this stacked posture. Try to make medium-radius turns using solely ankle/knee/hip angulation (do not drop your hips or shoulders toward the snow as you would in a typical alpine turn). Hint: it’s okay to slide a little bit when making these turns!

As you become more comfortable with those turns, begin progressing toward quicker, short-radius turns using the same technique as in the medium-radius turns (short-radius turns will be discussed in detail in section 4).

If you only have several days each season to ski, then learning to ski moguls could prove quite a challenging task. However, do not fret! You’ll do yourself a big favor if you make certain to master this stance on the flats before even setting skis in the bumps, even if it takes all of your ski days in one season. Once you have the posture down, you will be able to improve in the bumps much more quickly. Remember, if you don’t have many days each season to ski, don’t rush it and don’t get frustrated if it takes a while to get to your desired level. When you take your time and learn it properly, you’ll have much more fun (not to mention look much better) in the end. If you rush things, you’ll get hurt.

Your Eyes: Always One Step Ahead of Your Feet
A common problem among many recreational (and even some professional) mogul skiers is their vision. When you’re in a bump field, you should always look at least three to four bumps ahead of you at all times. Your head and your eyes should always be up, looking ahead, not down. Think about it: if you’re only looking down at the bump beneath you, then how are you going to be able to prepare for what lies ahead? That’s right -- you can’t. Half the battle in skiing moguls well is being prepared for the upcoming bumps (or other obstacles). If you are looking ahead three or four moguls, you will be able to plan (subconsciously sometimes) what to do when you actually get to that bump. You will be able to ski a much smoother run, and you will be ready for whatever lies ahead. If there’s a stray ski pole in your line, you’ll have time to switch lines to avoid disaster. If someone ahead of you has fallen, you will be able to adjust before plowing him over. If your line is irregular, you won’t be surprised when you run into a bump that isn’t where you expected it to be.

Looking ahead is pivotal to skiing a safe and fluid mogul run. At first, you may feel uncomfortable not looking at what is underneath you. But logic and reason must point out that, since you’ve already seen the bump (because you looked at it a couple of bumps ago), you already know what’s there. You also may feel like your feet won’t know what to do unless you’re carefully studying what’s beneath them. Nonsense! Your feet, legs, boots, and skis can do a lot more on their own than you’d like to believe!
Drills:
Head to a relatively easy, intermediate, groomed run. Pick a reasonable portion of the trail to ski without stopping. Find an object at the end of that portion on which to focus. It could be a tree, a snowmaking hydrant, a sign, a lift tower, whatever (so long as it is stationary, of course). As you ski that portion of the trail, keep your eyes on the focal object and ski in your stacked stance making short-radius turns. Do this until you become very comfortable with the idea of looking ahead instead of down.

Next, take this same idea and apply it in a low-pitch bump field, preferably one that is half groomed/half bumps so that you can safely bail out if necessary. Start out just looking one bump ahead. Then, as you become used to that, move on to two, three, four bumps ahead. If you can get comfortable looking five or more bumps ahead, then more power to you! It will certainly work to your advantage!

Quiet Upper Body
To be successful in the bumps, and to look like a fluid bump skier, you need to have what is referred to as a quiet upper body. This means that your lower body (your skis, boots, knees, legs, hips, etc.) need to be doing all of the movement and the work, and your upper body must remain as still as possible. Yes, your arms will be moving a little bit for pole plants, but we’ll cover that technique later.

As you progress down a bump line, you will be turning your skis, absorbing the shock, moving up and down, maybe taking a little jump here and there. As long as you are in the bumps you should try to keep everything above your hips as quiet as possible. Your shoulders must always remain square down the fall line. This sets your entire body in the mode of skiing the fall line smoothly and properly. If you watch the pros on TV, you’ll notice that they’re flying through the bumps, turning and absorbing faster than the speed of light. Yet through it all, their upper bodies remain nice and still, and directed straight down the fall line.

Any excess movement in the upper body can cause trouble in the bumps. It can move your CG (center of gravity) and cause you to lose your balance. It can also dampen the effectiveness of absorption and extension, and it looks just plain sloppy. A quiet upper body = success in the bumps.

This all works hand-in-hand with the previous section. Keeping your upper body still will help you to keep your head up, and looking down the fall line. Vice-versa, looking ahead a few bumps and keeping your focus down the fall line will also help you to keep your upper body still and your stance tall.

Drills:
As with the topics covered earlier, the place to practice is on the groomers. Schuss yourself to a medium-pitch intermediate trail. Keeping your eyes focused ahead of you and down the fall line, make quick short-radius turns. Pay close attention to keeping your upper body still, and not turning your shoulders with your skis. A good way to hone this skill is to pick an object like you did in the last section, and focus on it again. This time, instead of just looking at it and skiing toward it, pick your arms up (bent at a 90 degree angle at your elbows) parallel to one another, one on either side of your eyes. Try to ski down to that object, keeping it between your arms at all times. Be sure to make your turns like always, but remember to keep your upper body still enough to keep that object between your arms. Hint: it might be helpful to do this without poles. But if you do take your poles, use your pole straps and let them hang from your thumbs to keep the sharp tips pointed toward the ground, and not out toward the poor skiers in front of you!


Short-Radius Turns
Short-radius turns are crucial to bump skiing for two main reasons. First, because the turns you will make in the bumps are short-radius, since 95% of the bumps you will encounter are relatively close together. They are certainly closer than would allow for a slalom or a typical carved alpine turn--which are cardinal sins in the bumps anyway. Second, because the short-radius turn on the groomers allows for the closest imitation of actually being in the bumps, which gives you the opportunity to practice bump skiing techniques on the flats.

To make these short-radius turns on the groomers, you need to ski in your stacked mogul skiing stance, and keep your upper body quiet as we discussed in the previous section. As you start down the run, you will make quick turns. Turn your feet/ankles and angulate your knees around to the next turn and extend. Repeat for your next turn. Edging should be as constant as possible from foot-to-foot and turn-to-turn. The edge-to-edge transition should be as smooth as possible, as though a constant flowing motion from one turn to the next. Although we typically avoid the word when talking about mogul skiing, what you're really doing here is a mogul carve. Your tips are following your tails and you are on edge. Thus, you are engaging in a carved turn (albeit a mogul-specific turn).

Every short-radius turn must involve solid edging. It is, however, okay to slide a little bit. In fact, depending upon the snow conditions, it may be impossible to avoid sliding. This is okay, so long as you are edging and (mogul) carving as well as possible.

You can vary your speed by adjusting when and how hard you edge. When making extremely short radius turns, transitioning to the next turn when your skis are barely across the fall line will allow you to take a more direct line and ski more quickly. Waiting longer through your arc for your skis to become more perpendicular to the fall line and edging harder will help you to keep your speed down a little.

It is important to note that with each turn you make, your movement needs to shift your weight to the downhill ski. In the bumps and groomers alike, you will want to make sure your weight is predominantly on the downhill ski.

Drills:
The best way to practice is to simply do it. A lot. Vary your speed and your edge setting. Perhaps start with a larger-radius turn, and little-by-little tighten the radius until you are making tons of tiny check-like turns. Then work your way back to a slightly wider radius. Do this until you are more than comfortable with making short-radius turns.
As you practice, it is key to remember to keep your eyes up and your upper body still.

The most effective method to rehearse keeping your weight on the downhill ski is to spend some time on the groomers doing wedge turns like you did when you first learned to ski. If you’re not familiar with these turns, place your skis in the snowplow ( / \ ) position. Begin going down the trail. To turn left, keep your left ski straight and turn your right ski left, angulating your right knee and putting your weight on the downhill (right) ski ( | \ ). Do the opposite for your right turn ( / | ). As you turn, you should feel a pinch near your hip. These wedge turns will make weighting your downhill ski second nature.

Picking a Line
One of the most common questions aspiring bump skiers ask is: “Where do I ski in the bump field? How do I pick my line?” Well, the most obvious answer would be, “Ski down the fall line!” Of course, that’s not very helpful when you’re a new mogul skier trying to make a logical choice as to how to ski a particular bump field.

As you come to the beginning of a bump trail, take a few seconds to survey the moguls, looking for possible hazards such as ice, bare spots, fallen skiers, etc. Pick a part of the trail to ski that is free of any such dangers. If you are skiing seeded bumps (moguls built by snowcats or other mogul-building techniques) then your line will be right there in front of you. Also, in ideal conditions on a natural bump run with only expert bumpers skiing the trail, the lines will be obvious and straight down the fall line. However, 99% of the natural bumps you will encounter will not be in straight lines, and will include some irregularities and some funny bump locations.

On natural mogul runs, the most important concept for you to understand is that you CANNOT (note the all-caps bold) allow the troughs (ruts between the bumps) or bump alignment to dictate your line. As mogul skiers, our sole interest and intent is to ski the fall line as straight as possible. Therefore, when you choose a line, choose one that is as regular as possible, but as you ski it, simply absorb through the irregularities (more on this later) and stay in your line straight down the trail. Sometimes you will encounter troughs so deep that you feel like they’ll suck you right in. You have two options: ski through it, or make a hop turn over it onto your next bump. What you do not want to do (as much as possible) is leave your line to avoid an irregular bump or a deep trough. This makes for choppy, disconnected mogul skiing, and you often have to stop to regain composure and pick your line again. Of course, if a crazy skier jumps out in front of you, or you come upon a renegade dirt patch/rock, feel free to adjust lines. But try to make it as smooth a motion as possible.

Line selection is one of those concepts that you’ll become comfortable with as you ski more and more moguls. As you master the techniques discussed in this guide, you’ll begin to realize that you’re not even “picking” a line anymore, so much as just skiing a logical line without having to think about it.

One issue that arises for many mogul skiers is that they spend too much time dwelling on choosing their line. Some go to the extent of planning out each of their first dozen or two turns. This is not good. The biggest issue here is that, if you plan out your first, say, fifteen turns and you miss the seventh planned turn, you're completely flustered, out of your line, and out of rhythm. The other problem here is that, if you’re planning your turns based on where the bumps are, you’re letting the terrain dictate your line instead of vice-versa.

Another instinct that many bump skiers have is to stop and pick a new line each time they come to a new precipice. Many trails (such as Sugarbush’s Tumbler) include a series of several precipices and flatter sections. If you stop each time you get to the top of a new headwall, you are again chopping up your skiing and just making it more complicated by trying to pick a new line. Keep following the fall line--you’ll be fine! Now, if you have to stop because of a dangerous trail condition or you really need a break, and your heart rate is through the roof, and you can barely catch your breath--by all means, stop! Otherwise, there’s no reason to stop. Keep nailing the fall line and making other people envious!

There are no specific drills for this idea. The only way to get better at line selection is to ski more bumps.



Shin Pressure, Stand Tall, Hips Forward!
Each of these things should happen naturally when skiing moguls with the correct stacked posture. That said, however, they are important enough to warrant their own section. Standing tall with your hips forward, ensuring constant pressure on the tongue of your boot are the things that will allow you to ski the fall line in control and smoothly, looking like a pro.

Let’s take them in the above order, just for the sake of my obsessive-compulsive organizational needs. Shin Pressure. What mogul skiers mean when they talk about shin pressure is a constant pressure between your shin and the tongue of your boots. This doesn’t mean to push as hard as you can. Just maintain contact/pressure 100% of the time, in or out of the bumps. This helps to keep you stacked, helps drive your tips over the bumps, and keeps your knees in the correct position to comfortably absorb and extend. The minute you feel that you’ve lost pressure on the tongues, do whatever you need to in order to reestablish that pressure.

By “stand tall,” I mean that you should make sure that, while maintaining shin pressure, you keep your back straight while you ski. If you ski with your back hunched over or arched backwards or you begin to crouch, you’re putting yourself at risk to hurt your back or neck, and you are also losing your balance and moving your CG, thus abandoning your stacked posture. You are no longer able to properly control your speed, and it’s difficult to absorb and extend. This is relatively straightforward, but try to be conscious of whether your back is straight or hunched over.

Think of it this way: letting yourself get in the backseat while skiing moguls is like trying to drive a backhoe up a steep grade. When you're going straight up a steep grade in a backhoe, it puts the CG so far back that the front end will pick up off the ground and you will likely tip backward onto the boom/dipper assembly. Similarly, when you're in the bumps, your CG gets too far behind you and your skis shoot out in front of you. When this happens, you tip over backwards just like the backhoe would (and you might fall on your boom and injure your dipper!).

One problem that many mogul skiers must overcome is getting their hips too far back and ending up in the back seat. This, again, causes your skis to shoot out in front of you, and you lose control. It also gives you the urge to crouch. The best way to get your hips forward is to think of them leading you down the hill. Now, you don’t want to end up with your hips way out in front of you, but it’s the train of thought that you need to get into. Thrust your hips forward and try to keep them there so that your butt doesn’t end up over your tails. There are several analogies I could use related to keeping hips forward, but because this website is for all ages of mogul skiers, I think we’ll keep it clean!
Drills:

As with most of the topics already discussed, the place to get used to this is on the groomers. Pick a short section of a medium-pitch intermediate trail, and ski with short-radius turns while being conscious the whole time of ensuring constant shin pressure, standing tall, and driving your hips forward. You need to do this as long as it takes until it’s second nature and simply part of the way you ski. You should do it enough so that it becomes second nature, to the point that if you ever lose shin pressure, or start to crouch, or feel your hips moving backward, you can immediately compensate and fix the problem without any conscious thought or effort.

Beginning Absorption and Extension
Absorption and Extension (A&E) refers to the shock absorber-like motion in which the mogul skier absorbs the moguls and then extends his legs toward the next mogul, and repeats the process continuously for the entire run. It is an integral part of a correctly executed mogul turn. A&E seems to be the most talked about component of good mogul skiing. Unfortunately, many people stress A&E so much that they forget all of the other equally important parts of the sport. If you skipped to this section because you think A&E is all you need to learn, forget it. Believe me, you’ll be doing yourself a HUGE favor if you go back and read through the previous six sections first. Without the foundation that those sections lay, A&E is worthless. Really. I’m serious.

A&E is one of the most prominent actions of mogul skiers. Many people easily associate it with mogul skiing from watching the pros and seeing their knees work like shock absorbers. Most people think that they will never be able to do that. Well, you can. As important as A&E is, it’s not any more difficult than any of the other techniques you’ll practice in the bumps. If you do it enough, you’ll become proficient.

The reason we absorb and extend is the same as the reason cars have shock absorbers: it saves the equipment from excess stress (in this case, you). It maintains a quiet upper body, it reduces jarring and injury, it allows us to ski the fall line, and it looks smooth. It also saves our knees. Most people believe that mogul skiing is bad for your knees. WRONG! Although there is always inherent risk of knee injury in any type of skiing, mogul skiing is no riskier than alpine skiing. Because we absorb the shock of the moguls, they do not jar our knees. Frankly, skiing moguls properly is easier on your knees than going for a jog or running up a staircase. Although in the '70s, '80s, and early '90s, most dedicated mogul skiers ended up with knee injuries or worn-out knees from "bump bashing," current and recent pros and dedicated mogul skiers are having many fewer knee issues than previously. The biggest danger of knee damage now relates to improper or missed landings after hitting a kicker/jump.

A&E is also one of the primary means of speed control in mogul skiing. When coupled with effective edging, absorbing and extending keeps the mogul skier at a controlled speed. By varying your turn size, edging pressure, and A&E, you can vary the speed that you travel. Each time you absorb a mogul, it checks your speed. That is why mogul skiers can ski straight down the fall-line with much more control than a skier on a groomed trail.

Most mogul skiers, even advanced mogul skiers, often misinterpret the act of absorbing. They interpret it as a pulling of the knees toward the jaw (or even a sitting down motion). However, this is not correct. Sitting on a chair, if you pull your knees up to your chin, where is your center of gravity? That’s right--way behind your feet. Absorbing by pulling your knees to your face will immediately throw you into the backseat, a place no mogul skier wants to be!

The correct motion for absorbing a mogul is as follows: As you reach the mogul with your tips, begin to absorb the mogul in your knees, and stay on the balls of your feet while actively driving the tips down into the snow upon reaching the crest of the mogul. While doing this, you will feel more like your heels are being pulled to your buttocks, rather than your knees to your chin. Always, always, always maintain solid shin pressure. This keeps you stacked and balanced, and you will be ready for the next bump. As your CG moves slightly backward, your skis do so as well since your heels are moving directly to that CG. In essence, you are adjusting your fore/aft balance. Although there is quite a lot of obvious vertical knee motion, it is not caused by pulling the knees up, but by pulling the heels back and up. Keeping the skis on the snow as much as possible should be a goal of the aspiring mogul skier. You should consciously be sure to drive your tips into the snow as much as possible (be careful on a deep powder day, though .

Extension is often considered far less important than absorption. However, this is also untrue. After absorbing a mogul, it is crucial that a full extension be part of your short-radius mogul turn. If you want to be able to fully absorb the next mogul, you need to fully extend.

To put this into action, here’s the general idea for skiing a series of 3 moguls: attack the first mogul (we’ll say it’s on the left side of your line) in as straight a line as possible. Absorb the mogul as soon as you reach its crest by staying on the balls of your feet and driving your tips into the snow (which should move your heels toward your buttocks). After absorbing and cresting the mogul, turn your skis quickly to the left (from your feet/ankles and knee angle) and fully extend into the next mogul. As your tips come off of the snow and you begin to crest the bump, absorb as fully as possible (as described above), and make a quick right turn fully extending to the third bump. Repeat the process for absorbing the mogul, and continue your run by repeating these techniques.

This method is essentially the same no matter how you ski the moguls, although it is slightly tailored toward slower skiing as you learn the concepts. After the next section, “Where to Aim on the Bump,” we’ll revisit A&E and discuss how you can fine-tune it to skiing straighter and faster lines.
Drills:

As much as I hate to admit it, the best way to get a feel for (and become comfortable with) A&E is to ski across the fall line on an intermediate-grade mogul run. Slowly ski across the fall line and practice absorbing each bump as you begin to crest it. Extend your skis and repeat until you’ve made it the whole way across the trail. Continue to do this, and each time across the trail, point your skis a little more down the fall line. Soon you’ll be absorbing and extending straight down the trail!

Where to Aim on the Bump
So you’ve pretty much mastered the techniques in the earlier sections and you’re starting to really feel good about the bumps. Now you want to go a little faster and look a little better. Well, part of the key to that is where you aim your tips as you approach the next bump. When skiing bumps slowly, your skis often rotate pretty far across the fall line. As you long to ski a straighter faster line, you need to adjust this.

As World-Cup-style bumpers, we aim for a specific point on the bump. That point is not the top of the mogul, not the middle of the side of the mogul, but just several inches up the front corner/side of the mogul. Since the concept of "corner" is technically non-existant when discussing a round object, perhaps a drawing will help (my technical editor pointed out to me that aiming for the corner of a round mogul is like telling someone to sit in the corner of a round room!). The following depicts the same line skied by three skiers. The first is skiing slowly, the second a medium speed, and the third a WC-style fast zipperline:


In zipperlining, we're attempting to take as straight a path down the fall line as possible, while still maintaining complete control. Sometimes you have to throw your skis across the fall line a little to slow down if your speed begins to get away from you. That's okay, but always strive for this straight path. Let those skis run, and absorb whatever comes in front of you!

It is important to make a distinction between the third image and what many people consider "trough skiing." The third image depicts a very straight line through the moguls, but your skis are always in contact with the moguls and are not "riding the troughs." WC skiing is not about being down in the troughs. It's about finding the right spot on the moguls. Although the image shows a nice straight line, this is not always what you'll find in a mogul field. The goal is to ski your straight line, regardless of what's ahead of you. The following image will help to clear this up:


This means that sometimes you will ski high on the moguls, sometimes low, sometimes you'll find yourself in a trough for a second, and ocassionally you might be on top of a mogul. As long as you are skiing the fall line, you're fine. However, as the bumps allow (and always when you're in a comp or seeded course) definitely aim for that uphill corner.

The only way to practice this is to get out there in a bump field, and point your skis for that imaginary mark a few inches up the front corner/side of the bump. This can be a gradual process. Consider starting out aiming for a point a little over halfway up the bump. Then each run, aim a little lower until you become comfortable with the speed you'll experience aiming for the spot mentioned earlier. It will take time. Skiing moguls fast can be intimidating at first. But don't give up. Just take your time, and be careful. You'll get there.

Absorption and Extension: Revisited
Now that you're aiming for the right spot, taking a straighter and faster path through the bumps, we can take another brief look at how to use A&E effectively.


As you ski faster, the motions involved in A&E must happen faster and automatically. In this case, you will begin absorbing before you hit the bump, and as you reach the apex (highest point) of where you're aiming, you will fully absorb the mogul by driving your tips down over the bump and staying up on the balls of your feet (again, your heels should move up toward the buttocks). You will continue making your turn to the next bump, and fully absorb, repeating this process.

If the bumps aren't very large, you may find that you don't need to absorb so much. I will warn you that there is in fact such a thing as too much absorption. Fully absorb the bump, but do not force extra absorption afterward. Use that time to extend to the next bump. Remember to keep constant shin pressure, and keep your upper body as completely quiet as possible.

Arm Position and Pole Plants
Another key aspect of quality mogul skiing is the positioning of your arms and your pole plants. When you're skiing moguls, you want to keep your hands in front of you as though you are carrying a tray, about shoulder length apart. As you ski, you want your hands to keep driving you forward. Don't let them drop to your sides or get lazy. Keep them out in front and about shoulder width apart, much like you would in your normal alpine skiing form.

Pole planting in the moguls is all about timing and a light touch. The pole should never be used as a weight support during a turn. In fact, if you are poling properly, it is simply a matter of a flick of the wrist. All the while, your arms/shoulders should remain quiet with the rest of your upper body.

As you ski the moguls, your pole plants should be on the backside (downhill side) of each mogul. Patience truly is a virtue when discussing mogul poling. You don't want to plant on the face (front) of the mogul. This will get you off balance, pull your arms behind you as you absorb and advance toward the next bump, and thus will create problems with your turn timing. You don't want to plant on top of the mogul, because this will force you to reach up and will also pull your arm back behind you. You want to aim for a spot around the center of the downhill side of the bump. Many bump skiers (even good ones) have trouble waiting for the right moment to pole plant. It is very important that you be ever patient and wait for the moment when you can effortlessly plant on that downhill side. This will act, then, as your pivot point for the next turn and allow you to plant with a very light touch and a simple wrist movement. Again... do not lean your weight into your pole plant. It is not a speed controller.

I have no specific drills to offer. However, just practice by skiing slowly enough at first to really make sure that pole plant happens just at the right time and on the right spot. Patience is key. Slowly increase your speed as you get used to this poling. Soon it will become second nature like many of the other mogul skiing concepts. Practice makes perfect!

Speed Control
Speed control already has been mentioned briefly in individual sections. Controlling your speed in the bumps is twofold: you must use A&E and turn shape/edging.

As you absorb a mogul, your speed naturally dissipates through the absorption process. The deeper you absorb, the more your speed is controlled. We generally do not consciously use A&E alone to keep speed down. However, as you ski bumps properly and use A&E correctly, it will help you control your speed without even thinking about it!

The more voluntary method of controlling speed is adjusting the radius and strength of edging. The more you allow your skis to turn across the fall line (the further you complete your arc), the more your speed will dissipate. Also, the harder you edge, the more speed you'll bleed.

Assuming good conditions and a decent line, you shouldn't need to adjust your turns much to keep your speed down. You should be able to zipperline straight down the fall line. However, there are issues that arise when skiing bumps, and it's important to know how to slow down while continuing to ski bumps properly.


Aggressive, Athletic Skiing
One key to skiing bumps well is being aggressive and athletic about your skiing. This doesn't mean that you have to ski really fast. This means you need to be willing to push yourself and to ski hard and ski with passion, not being afraid of what's ahead of you.

When you're in a bump line, being over-cautious and over-conservative about your skiing will get you into much less desirable situations than skiing aggressively. You need to be skiing with a purpose, doing everything to the very best of your ability. You must be unafraid to try running your skis a little straighter or taking the occasional jump off of a bump. You need to always push on down the fall line, and not be afraid to absorb whatever happens to be in your path (as long as it doesn't pose a danger, of course). Timidity will not get you far in the bumps. Be aggressive, be strong, be athletic. If you combine this with the techniques discussed previously, there's absolutely no reason for you to fail at becoming a great mogul skier.

Something to keep in mind, though: don't be crazy. Aggressive skiing does not mean skiing so fast you're out of control. That's not at all what aggressive skiing is. Skiing too fast is incredibly dangerous, not only to you, but to everyone around you. Heaven forbid you should dent a lift tower with your head. It costs the ski area a lot to remove that dent and repaint it (<-- note the sarcasm, please)! In all seriousness, control is the most important aspect of skiing moguls. If you aren't in control, then you're not skiing properly or safely. So be aggressive, go after that line, don't be afraid of a little speed, but always maintain control.


What to Do in a Bind
As with any sport, it's rather common to find yourself in a bit of a bind. Some of the binds we get into in the bumps are quite interesting. It's important to know how to correct the issue, and—if possible—stay in your line and keep moving.

One of the most common problems mogul skiers face is getting into the back seat or losing balance. In both of these situations, the key is to keep pushing forward. Don't bail and don't try to slow down when your CG is over your tails. You'll just fall. If it's a really serious situation and you need to stop immediately, by all means fall. Off course, it doesn't feel good, and it doesn't look good. Our goal as mogul skiers is to press on as much as possible, as long as we can maintain or regain proper posture. So if you find yourself getting in the back seat over your tails, or losing your balance, really push your hips and your hands forward as much as you can. Just keep pushing, pushing, pushing and reaching forward. Before you know it, you'll find that you're regaining balance and control, and you're still in the same line looking like a pro.

If your speed gets so far out of control that you can no longer reduce it with the techniques discussed in section eleven, then you need to try to take a couple of turns farther across the fall line around several bumps to bleed that excess speed. If you cannot do this safely and in control, then you need to do your best to create a safe, controlled fall to your side. Do not try to continue skiing if you cannot get your speed under control. Someone will undoubtedly get hurt. Do what you need to do to stop. Once you've stopped, take a moment and consider the cause of the excess speed gain. See if you can put the earlier techniques to work to try to avoid finding yourself in a similar situation again. One thing you don't want to do to stop is lean back on your tails while turning. This will actually make it worse, and your skis will shoot out in front of you and you'll land hard on your backside. Not good.

The final bind we'll discuss in detail is losing your line. Sometimes when we get out of control or see a nasty looking obstacle, we either intentionally bail out of our line or end up out of it by accident. If you can regain your control, then try to keep going in another line without stopping. As mentioned earlier, press forward. If the issue throws you around and you're not in solid control, it's okay to stop and find a new line. However, if you happen to be competing and skiing a course, then you really don't want to get out of your line. You'll definitely lose points or be DQed. If it does happen, do your best to press on in control and just finish your run as well as you possibly can. It's not the end of the world!

There are, of course, infinite ways to get in tough situations. The general rule of thumb is this: if you are in control or can safely regain control, push everything forward. If you are out of control and cannot regain control, you need to stop and determine why you lost control and make an adjustment based on this finding.


Forget Everything You've Just Read
(well... sort of)
The message of this section is short and simple, but well deserving of it's own page.

Now that you've consumed all of this information about how to ski bumps, you're going to want to work on everything at the same time. You're going to get to the top of a bump run and have so much going through your head that you will not be able to ski well. Too many skiers try to focus on too much at once. So as you work on these techniques, take it slow and work on one thing at a time. Don't think about everything else--just master what you're working on. As you do this, the techniques become second nature so that as you work on the next technique, you no longer even have to think about the previous one, it's automatic.

Don't fall into the trap of trying to work on and think about everything at once. Take one thing at a time until it's all second nature, and before you know it, you're rippin' lines you never thought you'd be able to ski!


Don't Forget the Groomers!!!
Another short but unbelievably important section. This is what I personally have the most trouble with.

As fun as it is to spend all day in the bumps, if you really want to improve your mogul skiing, you need to split your time fairly evenly between bumps and groomers. Most of the techniques you'll apply in the bumps should be practiced on the groomers. So when you're out skiing, try to take several runs on the groomers drilling the techniques from earlier sections, and then go apply what you learned on the groomers into the bumps. That's the only way to really learn to ski bumps properly. Even the pros spend way more time on the groomers than you'd ever guess. It's just the way you have to learn and practice!

Gear
While you can technically ski a bump line on any skis in any boots with any poles, you may be making your life much more difficult. In order to maximize your mogul skiing ability and to shorten the learning curve, you will do yourself a huge favor by investing in appropriate gear. If you're really serious about skiing moguls, you don't have much choice.

As far as skis are concerned, it would be best to buy a pair of mogul-specific skis. These are skis that generally do not have much sidecut, are fairly narrow under foot, and are a soft to medium-stiff ski. They are constructed for optimal mogul skiing performance. Current and recent mogul skis include: K2 Mamba, K2 Cabrawler, Volkl Rebellion, Volkl Dragonslayer, Dynastar Twister, Salomon 1080 Mogul, Rossignol Scratch Mogul, Hart F17, Fischer Lunar, Head Supermogul, and Head Mojo Mogul. You can find more details and reviews of many of these skis in the equipment section of this website. You can generally find a brand new pair of solid comp-level mogul skis in the $250 to $700 price range. It's well worth the price, I assure you. Once you try them, you'll never go back!

For boots, mogul skiers generally want a medium-stiffness boot. They need to be soft enough to aid in absorption and not cause shin bang, while being stiff enough to provide 1:1 reaction from your feet to your skis. There are too many good boots to begin listing them. I would strongly recommend visiting a boot professional so that you can be sized properly. Be sure to tell the fitter that you want a boot for aggressive mogul skiing, and that you want a medium-stiffness boot. If the fitter knows anything about mogul skiing and sizes your boot properly, you'll be golden.

Poles for mogul skiing need to be quite a bit shorter than those for carving and other alpine skiing forms. As a general rule, you can size the same way you would for a regular alpine pole (holding poles upside down beneath the baskets, looking for a pole size that gives a 90 degree angle at the elbow), and subtract 3-5 inches. For example, at 5'10” I ski with a 46” pole for other forms of alpine skiing. However, in the bumps, I ski with a 42” pole. The reasoning behind this is relatively obvious: skiing groomers, you're planting on a surface at the same elevation as your skis. In the bumps, you're planting on the backside (downhill side) of the bumps, which are higher than your feet. If your poles are too long, then you'll have to reach up and your hands will be pulled backward and get behind you. Just remember to look for a pole several inches shorter than you'd otherwise buy for skiing corduroy.

Just a brief comment about bindings: avoid any binding with a lifter (including a demo track). We want to stay as close to the snow as possible in the bumps, and lifters don't help us out at all. Be sure to purchase a lightweight, solid, performance binding, and have it mounted and tested professionally. The most revered binding among the mogul community seems to be the 2005 Look P12. Unfortunately, those are hard to come by anymore. However, the new Look PX12 seems to do well. Any high quality non-lifted binding will likely suit you fine in the bumps.

More Info
(and how to get to the next level)
Now that you've read this, you may think you have all the tools to become a pro. Well, kind of. If you really want to get to the pro level and pursue serious mogul skiing, you should consider a couple of other sources of information. While you have now learned most of the technical details and concepts, you need to be able to put them into practice. It helps hugely to have some coaching from the pros. The best way to do this is to attend a mogul camp. The two most popular and successful mogul camps are Mogul Logic, run by Chuck Martin and David Babic (current US Freestyle “A” team member), and the Momentum Mogul and Freeride camps. You can visit them at www.mogullogic.com and www.momentumcamps.com respectively. These camps give you the opportunity to have your skiing analyzed by the pros and coaches so that they can help you get to the next level. They work with you on the groomers, in the bumps, and in the jumps. The summer camps at Whistler/Blackcomb include trampoline and water ramp training for aerials, as well as some of the greatest quality mogul courses you'll find. I can't stress enough how important these camps are if you really want to get better. As great as reading about technique is, it just doesn't have quite the same impact as working with an actual pro/coach.

You could also join a mogul team or do a season-long mogul camp at a local ski area, if there's one available. However, a word of caution: research the coaches and make sure that they are legit and will teach you WC-style skiing. If they have a solid mogul program, then great! Go for it!

I would strongly advise against taking a private mogul lesson from a ski school unless the instructor is either a former pro or an actual mogul coach. Learning the methods taught by professional instruction organizations and most professional ski instructors will not satisfy you if you want to ski moguls properly. Some areas do have quality mogul instructors, but unfortunately, they are in the minority. If you want mogul instruction, find a pro who teaches or attend a camp.

There are also some other great written resources that, along with this guide, will help you learn mogul skiing on your own, or that will supplement what you learn at camps or on teams. These include:

"Everything the Instructors Never Told You About Mogul Skiing" by Dan DiPiro. This is an excellent starter to mogul skiing, and complements many of the concepts in this guide. The style is slightly dated in comparison with today's WC techniques, but it is still effective nonetheless. DiPiro was a high ranking competitive mogul skier in the '80s, and has a lot of experience to back up his writing.

"Newschool: Skiing's Next Generation" by David Babic and Gerhard and Armin Blochl. This is a fantastic introduction to aerials and other freestyle skiing techniques. This is a great resource if you want to learn to do aerials in the bumps.

Good luck! See you in the bumps!



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