主题Todd Skinner的安全带经检查没有发现任何酸蚀的证据
 作者janeclimber
 时间2008年12月01日 04:26:21
  

 

Skinner's Harness shows no signs of contamination

Quoted in full from Jackson Hole Daily

www.jhnewsandguide.com

By Angus M Thuermer Jr.
September 15, 2007

An investigation of the climbing harness that failed and sent Lander, Wyo. climber Todd Skinner plunging to his death in Yosemite National Park last October found no signs of contamination that might have weakened the safety webbing.

The report by Yosemite ranger M. Faherty has been awaited by climbers worldwide who were stunned by the death of Skinner, a well-known pioneer, and the unusual failure of his safety gear. The Jackson Hole News & Guide obtained a copy of the report Friday through the Freedom of Information Act.

Climbers know that a critical part of the nylon webbing harness, a belay loop, broke and caused Skinner, 47, to fall 800 feet from the overhanging wall of Leaning Tower. At the time of his death, Skinner was descending the face after a day of climbing, sliding down a rope using a friction device linked to the belay loop.

Climbers also know that Skinner’s harness was worn, that his climbing partner, James Hewitt, commented on its poor condition, and that Skinner agreed the harness needed replacing.

Skinner was wearing an Arc’Teryx Targa harness. Tests of new belay loops similar to the one on Skinner’s harness, which were conducted by another climbing equipment manufacturer, showed them to be strong enough to hold body weight, even when cut most of the way through.

Climbers wondered whether Skinner’s harness might have been contaminated and weakened by a foreign substance. The Park Service report found no evidence of that.

Faherty wrote in his investigation that he sent the torn belay loop to Rhodia/Nexis Fibers in Switzerland for a chemical analysis. “On 06/15/07, I was notified by Rhodia representative Elman Ernst that ‘apart from the residues of the original spin-finish, no substances could be extracted from [the] analysed part of the loop’. ...” the report says

Also, Faherty’s report discounts the possibility that animals may have gnawed on the harness when it was cached. Skinner left his harness overnight at the base of the climb, stored in a bag. “There was no sign of tampering by animals or people,” Faherty wrote.

The report comes to no conclusion as to why the belay loop broke. Faherty makes several observations, however, that could lead climbers to a conclusion.

Skinner’s partner reiterated in interviews with rangers that he observed the loop “had been about 20 percent worn through three days prior,” to the accident. Faherty wrote that he, too, “also observed that the harness was extremely frayed and worn where the belay loop should run through the ‘swami belt’ and the leg loops.”

“The belay loop appeared worn near where it was torn,” Faherty wrote. “The actual torn section appeared frayed. I could see no fusing of Nylon fibers suggestive of a shock load...”

Faherty also found a sling girth-hitched to the broken belay loop, which Hewitt believed had been in place for some time and prevented the belay loop from rotating and absorbing wear evenly. “Also broken was the keeper strap on the leg loops,” ranger Faherty wrote. Loss of the keeper strap would free the leg loops to saw against belay loop, often in the same spot, given Skinner’s harness set-up.

Those observations support climber Will Gadd’s theory, published in a recent issue of Outside magazine, that the sawing leg loops contributed to the belay loop’s failure.
 


绳子和生命[1.3k]
janeclimber 08-11-14 12:31:23
绳子就是生命线,绝不能妥协……[0]
鸡肚皮 08-11-14 13:39:37
要看是做什么用了,如果不是用于攀岩防护,用用国产的绳子也无妨。[0]
倾疯铭阅 08-11-16 19:16:25
楼主说的是动力绳[0]
鸡肚皮 08-11-16 20:55:36
已经和厂商联系过证实其未做UIAA认证(附已经通过UIAA认证动力绳列表和认证过期时间)[11.3k]
duke5d 08-11-17 19:51:20
UIAA并不神圣 它只能为你多加一道防护 [327]
duke5d 08-11-17 22:28:54
不清楚你在说什么[1.3k]
mh 08-11-18 13:29:54
我要说的是3个观点:[622]
duke5d 08-11-18 14:18:55
唉,说来说去原来大家都不用……[0]
鸡肚皮 08-11-18 15:04:08
我都同意[78]
mh 08-11-19 22:02:00
UIAA 是和山寨版的绳子没有关系……[167]
二师兄 08-11-19 11:44:05
二师兄,现在你的肉比师父的肉都贵了,让我们保护谁呢?[0]
SG1SGA 08-11-19 15:16:06
原讨论贴在这[70]
nick200 08-11-18 17:20:03
请教:有没有绳子探伤用的东西 比如拍个片子什么的[203]
duke5d 08-11-22 11:52:44
暂时没指望,工业探伤机又太贵。[0]
jjyfoot 08-11-26 03:48:44
如果租用一天是5000块 集中探100条绳子 也值了...[123]
duke5d 08-11-26 08:10:22
地铁安检的X光机如何?[0]
SG1SGA 08-11-26 14:43:49
没戏,精度不够。[0]
jjyfoot 08-11-28 05:39:29
基本检查很简单[1.1k]
mh 08-11-26 15:42:53
严重感谢mh!!![149]
duke5d 08-11-28 10:07:43
Todd Skinner 和 Dan Osman的事故调查结果[312]
janeclimber 08-11-27 10:49:25
是说Skinner的吊环也许和酸蚀有关,说明绳子等尼龙制品怕酸蚀[68]
mh 08-11-27 13:43:09
Todd Skinner的安全带经检查没有发现任何酸蚀的证据[3.5k]
janeclimber 08-12-01 04:26:21
多谢。没找到明显原因,这很令人不安![0]
mh 08-12-05 15:44:49