主题绳子和生命
 作者janeclimber 
 IP地址*.242.121.93 
 时间08-11-14 12:31:23
 


目前有一些不明不白的所谓国产攀登用动力绳的广告出现在其他网站上。可能是本人孤陋寡闻,但是据我所知,世界上正规的攀登用绳都是美国和西欧的少数几个国家生产(法、德、奥地利、瑞士、西班牙)。正规的攀登用绳都必须通过 UIAA 和 CE非常严格地认证。日本人和韩国人都是用欧美出的绳子。日本人算是注重产品质量了,为什么他们自己不做呢?相反的是,为什么中国的这些乡镇企业忽然开始号称做攀登用绳了呢?

目前中国的商业操作没有规范,在牛奶里能掺上三氰胺,那是死了四十多人才暴光的。如果攀登的绳子不好用,估计死了4、5个都不顶用。您愿意做小白鼠您就自愿吧!

世界上最优秀的登山家,波兰人Jerzy Kukuczka就是死于一条来路不明的绳子。他为了省钱,从加德满都的小摊上买了一条来路不明的绳子。

请看灰灰的解释,为什么要用正规的攀登用绳:

"国产绳子好像只经过了拉力断裂测试,CE认证只是针对拉力的,其他系数指标都没有。
厂家所说的:“主绳(动力绳)”和“主绳(静力绳)”其实没有本质上的区别,只是颜色不同而已,只能视为静力绳。

对于攀登绳索,还有很多至关重要的指标,与生命息息相关。比如:冲击力指标、冲坠系数、绳索延展度,以及绳壳滑动量等问题。
在攀登坠落时,绳索对人的冲击拉力不能超过12KN(UIAA标准),否则,绳索虽然不断,但人已经被强大的拉力导致伤亡,所以动力绳的冲击力指标、冲坠系数和延展度非常重要。"

http://www.vboulder.com/bbs/viewthread.php?tid=3021&extra=page%3D1





这个贴子最后由 janeclimber 2008年11月14日 12:32:45 编辑

 

    
 主题绳子就是生命线,绝不能妥协……
 作者鸡肚皮 
 IP地址*.8.236.11 
 时间08-11-14 13:39:37
 


 

    
 主题要看是做什么用了,如果不是用于攀岩防护,用用国产的绳子也无妨。
 作者倾疯铭阅 
 IP地址*.35.114.23 
 时间08-11-16 19:16:25
 


 

    
 主题楼主说的是动力绳
 作者鸡肚皮 
 IP地址*.140.120.189 
 时间08-11-16 20:55:36
 


 

    
 主题已经和厂商联系过证实其未做UIAA认证(附已经通过UIAA认证动力绳列表和认证过期时间)
 作者duke5d 
 IP地址*.117.163.197 
 时间08-11-17 19:51:20
 

DYNAMIC ROPES UIAA 101 Date: 2008-07-20
The products listed below are conform to the UIAA Standards
Beal

Product name Size Description Expiry date
Elliot Scott 10.2 mm single rope 2010-12-31
PMI Encore 10.6 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Wall Master IV 10.5 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Wall Cruiser 10.4 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Tiger 10 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Wall Master V 10.5 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Verdon II 9 mm half rope 2010-12-31
Top Gun II 10.5 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Stinger III 9.4 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Stinger II 9.4 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Salewa Special 10.2 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Salewa Classic 10.5 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Rider 10.5 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Rando 8 mm twin rope 2009-12-31
Pro Montain 8.8 mm half rope 2010-12-31
Lyon Equipment 11 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Joker 9.1 mm half, twin & single rope 2009-12-31
Ice Twin 7.7 mm twin rope 2009-12-31
Ice Line 8.1 mm half rope 2010-12-31
Flyer II 10.2 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Flyer 10.2 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Ferrata 9.4 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Edlinger II 10.2 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Cobra II 8.6 mm half rope 2010-12-31
Booster III 9.7 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Edlinger 9.8 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Booster II 9.7 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Apollo II 11 mm single rope 2009-12-31

BlueWater Ropes
Product name Size Description Expiry date
Excellence 8.4 mm half rope 2009-12-31
Ice Floss 7.7 mm twin rope 2009-12-31
APEXX GEAR 10.5 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Enduro 11.0 mm single rope 2008-12-31
DynaPlus 10.7 mm single rope 2008-12-31
DynaGym 10.6 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Accelerator 10.5 mm single rope 2008-12-31
SlimLine Elite 10.3 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Eliminator 10.2 mm single rope 2008-12-31
DynaPlus 10.1 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Lightning Pro 9.7 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Dominator 9.4 mm half rope 2008-12-31
Dominator 9.4 mm single rope 2008-12-31

CAMP
Product name Size Description Expiry date
Fission Walk 7.6 mm twin rope 2009-12-31
Fusion 8.6 mm half rope 2009-12-31
Plekton 8.1 mm half rope 2009-12-31
Positron 11 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Page 1/6
DYNAMIC ROPES UIAA 101 Date: 2008-07-20
The products listed below are conform to the UIAA Standards
Product name Size Description Expiry date
Nucleus 10.4 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Ionic 10.1 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Electron 10.2 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Neutron 10.2 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Proton 9.7 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Atom 9.1 mm single, double & twin rope 2009-12-31
Cousin

Product name Size Description Expiry date
Millet Taurus Triaxiale 10.4 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Millet Taurus Max Triaxiale 10.2 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Millet Silver Triaxiale 9.8 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Millet Rubix Triaxiale 8.5 mm half rope 2010-12-31
Millet Quartz 10.3 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Millet Pro Forces 8.6 mm half rope 2010-12-31
Millet Magma 9.5 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Millet Falcon II 10.2 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Millet Diamond Triaxiale 10.4 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Millet Diamax Triaxiale 10.2 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Millet Catch 10.5 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Millet Alpine Lite 8.0 mm half rope 2010-12-31
Millet Alpha Fluid Protect 10.3 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Cousin Trestec Tepee 10.2 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Cousin Trestec Transalp 9.9 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Cousin Trestec Top Rock XX10.7 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Petzl Dojo 10.7 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Petzl Dragonfly 8.2 mm half rope 2009-12-31
Petzl Zephyr 10.3 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Petzl Nomad 9.9 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Petzl Fuse 9.5 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Cousin Trestec Magma 9.6 mm single rope 2008-12-31

Edelrid
Product name Size Description Expiry date
Perfect 10,5 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Safety Dynamic Dry 12 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Python 10 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Perfect 11 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Vertical 10,3 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Glacier Dry 8,5 mm half rope 2010-12-31
Kestrel & Kestrel Dry 8,5 mm half rope 2010-12-31
Merlin 8,0 mm half rope 2010-12-31
Colibri 7,6 mm twin rope 2010-12-31
Cobra 10,3 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Condor 11 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Tower 10,5 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Osprey 10,5 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Harrier & Harrier Bicolor 10,2 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Hawk 10 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Eagle & Eagle Bicolor 9,8 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Falcon & Falcon Bicolor 9,4 mm single rope 2010-12-31


Edelweiss
Product name Size Description Expiry date
Element 10.2 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Flashlight standard 10 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Starlight 10 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Superlight 10 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Onsight 9.9 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Ultralight 40 9.9 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Performance 9.2 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Laser 9.6 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Tornado 9 mm half rope 2009-12-31
Extrem 9.0 mm half rope 2009-12-31
Extrem 11.0 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Oxygen 8.2 mm half rope 2009-12-31
Touring 8 mm twin rope 2009-12-31
Discover 8 mm twin rope 2009-12-31
Duolight 8.0 mm twin rope 2009-12-31
Dynamic 8.3 mm twin rope 2009-12-31
Calanques 8.5 mm twin rope 2009-12-31
Sella 8.5 mm half rope 2009-12-31
Dynamic 8.3 mm half rope 2009-12-31
Calanques 8.5 mm half rope 2009-12-31
Sella 11 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Sella 10.5 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Torrent 10.5 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Emotion 10.5 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Calanques 10.5 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Ally 10.3 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Axis standard 10.3 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Riglos 10.2 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Axis 10.3 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Sharp 8.5 mm half rope 2009-12-31
Sharp 10.5 mm single rope 2009-12-31

Ferrino
Product name Size Description Expiry date
Ghiaccio 8.5 mm half & twin rope 2009-12-31
Dru dry 8.5 mm half & twin rope 2009-12-31
Presles 9.9 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Mesules 10 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Vercors dry 10.5 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Gilmonte
Product name Size Description Expiry date
Gilmonte Raasta 10 mm single rope 2009-12-31

Goeman
Product name Size Description Expiry date
Twin rope 9.5 mm 2009-12-31
Single rope 11 mm 2009-12-31
Page 3/6
DYNAMIC ROPES UIAA 101 Date: 2008-07-20
The products listed below are conform to the UIAA Standards

Kaya
Product name Size Description Expiry date
Braided 10.5 mm single rope 2009-12-31

Mammut
Product name Size Description Expiry date
Spark 9.6 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Serenity 8.9 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Matterhorn 10.4 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Gym Rope 10.2 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Genesis 8.6 mm half rope 2009-12-31
Universe 9.0 mm half rope 2009-12-31
Start 2000 10.5 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Tusk 9.8 single rope 2009-12-31
Galaxy 10.0 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Flash 10.4 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Flex 10.7 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Infinity 9.5 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Start 2002 10.2 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Phoenix 8.0 mm half rope 2009-12-31
Eternity 10.0 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Twilight 7.6 mm twin rope 2009-12-31
Supersafe 10.4 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Start 2004 10.4 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Revelation 9.3 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Promo 10.2 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Nimbo 10.4 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Half Dome 8.4 mm 2009-12-31
Eiger 10.7 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Dynaflex 10.7 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Alto 10.2 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Airmaster 10.7 mm single rope 2009-12-31

New England Ropes
Product name Size Description Expiry date
Chalk Line 10.8 mm 10.8mm Gym Rope 2010-12-31
Apogee 9,1 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Pinnacle 9,5 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Glider 10,2 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Equinox 10,2 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Elevate 10,8 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Glider 10,5 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Apex 10,5 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Glider 9,9 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Apex 9,9 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Glider 11,0 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Apex 11,0 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Unity 9,0 mm half rope 2008-12-31
Unity 8,0 mm half rope 2008-12-31


PMI
Page 4/6
DYNAMIC ROPES UIAA 101 Date: 2008-07-20
The products listed below are conform to the UIAA Standards
Product name Size Description Expiry date
Spire 10.2 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Cirque 10.6 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Arete 9.7 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Elite 9.4 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Fusion 8.6 mm half & twin rope 2009-12-31
Verglas 8.1 mm half & twin rope 2009-12-31
Latitude 11 mm single rope 2008-12-31

Roca
Product name Size Description Expiry date
Trek 8 mm twin rope 2009-12-31
Io 9.4 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Kio 10.2 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Indoor 10.4 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Minus 9.8 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Tasmania 9 mm half rope 2008-12-31
Tasmania 10.5 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Fanatic 8.5 mm half rope 2008-12-31
Migú 8 mm half & twin rope 2008-12-31
Strong 9 mm half rope 2008-12-31
Free 10.5 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Fanatic 10 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Strong 11 mm single rope 2008-12-31

Singing Rock
Product name Size Description Expiry date
Score 10.1 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Wallter indoor 10.4 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Duran 10,4 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Glory 9,8 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Accord 8.3 mm half & twin rope 2008-12-31
Trinity 10.3 mm single rope 2008-12-31

Sterling Rope
Product name Size Description Expiry date
Infinity Sprint 9.2 mm single & half rope 2010-12-31
Ion 9.5 mm single rope 2010-12-31
Fusion Nano 9.2 mm single & half rope 2009-12-31
Infinity Sprint 10.2 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Marathon Pro 10.1 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Marathon Ultra 10.7 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Infinity Sprint 8.4 mm half rope 2008-12-31
Infinity Enduro 10.7 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Evolution Duetto 8.4 mm half rope 2008-12-31
Evolution Velocity 9.8 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Infinity Enduro 9.1 mm half rope 2008-12-31
Marathon Mega 11.2 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Evolution Kosmos 10.2 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Evolution Quantum 10.7 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Marathon 8.8 mm half rope 2008-12-31
Marathon Sport 10.4 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Page 5/6
DYNAMIC ROPES UIAA 101 Date: 2008-07-20
The products listed below are conform to the UIAA Standards
Product name Size Description Expiry date
Fusion Nitro 9.8 mm single rope 2008-12-31

Tendon
Product name Size Description Expiry date
Tendon Touch 10,2 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Tendon Master 9,4 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Tendon Ambition 10 mm single rope 2009-12-31
Tendon Ambition 7,9 mm twin rope 2009-12-31
Tendon Ambition 7,9 mm half rope 2009-12-31
Tendon Trust 11,4 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Tendon Trust 11 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Tendon Ambition 10,5 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Tendon Smart 10,5 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Tendon Ambition 10,5 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Tendon Ambition 10,2 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Tendon Smart 10,0 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Tendon Master 10,0 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Tendon Ambition 9,8 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Tendon Master 9,7 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Tendon Master 9,2 mm single rope 2008-12-31
Tendon Ambition 9,1 mm half rope 2008-12-31
Tendon Ambition 8,5 mm half rope 2008-12-31
Tendon Master 8,5 mm twin rope 2008-12-31
Tendon Master 8,5 mm half rope 2008-12-31
Tendon Master 7,8 mm twin rope 2008-12-31
Tendon Master 7,8 mm half rope 2008-12-31

怎么说呢,给他们交老些钱检测一次还不行,还要年年给人家UIAA"上贡"要是我我也不干。

这个贴子最后由 duke5d 2008年11月17日 20:20:33 编辑

 

    
 主题UIAA并不神圣 它只能为你多加一道防护
 作者duke5d 
 IP地址*.117.163.197 
 时间08-11-17 22:28:54
 

虽然通过了UIAA CE sharken 爪子如高强度使用仍需召回.
虽然通过了UIAA todd 的BELAY LOOP环照样磨损断裂.
装备不能过度使用,一旦使用过度后要及时更换,这是更保险的.
即使是国产绳,随便用几次就死人机率是很小的,重点在于勤检查早更换,重点还是看个人安全意识怎么样.

几十年前的老攀登者还不都是用破绳子爬的?尼龙绳这些年才有.






 

    
 主题不清楚你在说什么
 作者mh 
 IP地址*.48.106.63 
 时间08-11-18 13:29:54
 

好像发帖有问题。


> “怎么说呢,给他们交老些钱检测一次还不行,还要年年给人家UIAA"上贡"要是我我也不干。”

他们不干可以啊,我可以不买他们的绳子,而且建议所有的我珍惜的朋友不买。不到1000块钱一根的进口的UIAA认证的绳子能用5、6年,贵啊?这年头?我昨天在北医三院运动医学门口路过了一下,人满为患,随便看点什么就是三位数账单。我是去看别的病的,咳嗽不停,也是三位数。绳子便宜啊。

>虽然通过了UIAA CE sharken 爪子如高强度使用仍需召回.

你是想说所以UIAA认证就可有可无?认证了的还有召回,不认证的不就更没谱了?不但产品本身质量没谱,连花钱认证都不肯做的厂家就更没谱了,你指望它发现问题招回产品或给你警告,那简直是,我在找词,,,痴人说梦?使用认证了的东西时,你至少知道曾经有人花了钱、花了功夫为保证你的产品质量奋力工作。使用没认证的东西?你除了知道有人从你这里赚钱走人外就没什么了。

> “即使是国产绳,随便用几次就死人机率是很小的”

这话越听越别扭。

你说的别的都对,勤检查、早更换、个人安全意识。我也相信国产绳爬个几次顶绳没问题。但是几次?几个月?奶粉里还添三氯氰胺,你知道国产绳子的尼龙里掺了什么?造绳子的厂家对他们的绳子能用多久都未必知道。比如说你纪律严明,每年换一次国产绳,可是平均下来,那不到1000块钱一根的进口的UIAA认证的绳子能爬顶绳用7-10年真的贵吗?(经验证明,UIAA认证的绳子10年不会因爬顶绳出问题,这我们敢说)

现在90%攀登人都比不上用麻绳时代人的安全意识。认证机制是*有效果*的,由其是保护不明细节的初学者。在中国由其不能向初学者推崇绕开国际水平认证的作法。



 

    
 主题我要说的是3个观点:
 作者duke5d 
 IP地址*.117.174.206 
 时间08-11-18 14:18:55
 

1.国产绳顶绳使用按抱石网人讲能凑合用,目前国内发生的拓展死伤案例以误操作为主,绳索断裂没见过。在这种数据基础上不应上来就否定国内的产品。

2.进口的再好,也要靠自己检查。没有安全意识再好的绳子也保不了命。比如DAN OSMAN绳子断了是蹦的角度问题。

3.UIAA不是神仙,也一样会有疏忽的时候。我长期接触CE、UL、ISO等机构,就跟你们对国产有成见一样,我对这些认证机构一样有成见。

最后我也不敢用国产的,但是免不了很多机构为省钱会用,我们不要用自己的经济情况去衡量别人的消费。
我们不要理想主义的去打死他们,而是给他们以数据上的监督和指正。
我们更多该做的是给客户数据以说服他们小心,数据才是让人无可辩驳的东西。

经济上堵不住,就要导。
 

    
 主题唉,说来说去原来大家都不用……
 作者鸡肚皮 
 IP地址*.8.236.11 
 时间08-11-18 15:04:08
 


 

    
 主题我都同意
 作者mh 
 IP地址*.216.172.249 
 时间08-11-19 22:02:00
 

国产绳子的问题不是一用就出问题(一般不出),问题是你不知道它什么时候出问题。

 

    
 主题UIAA 是和山寨版的绳子没有关系……
 作者二师兄 
 IP地址*.221.148.101 
 时间08-11-19 11:44:05
 

国产绳子即便UIAA、CE 认证都通过也不买,年年认证年年不买,天天认证天天不买;啥时候不认证了,可以买来遛狗,这才是正常用法;


另外,你怎么能当安全版版猪呢?!!!!!
 

    
 主题二师兄,现在你的肉比师父的肉都贵了,让我们保护谁呢?
 作者SG1SGA 
 IP地址*.232.104.62 
 时间08-11-19 15:16:06
 



call me SG1

 

    
 主题原讨论贴在这
 作者nick200 
 IP地址*.238.207.111 
 时间08-11-18 17:20:03
 

http://www.chinaclimber.com/bbs/viewthread.php?tid=3114&extra=page%3D1

keep a forest in the graden

 

    
 主题请教:有没有绳子探伤用的东西 比如拍个片子什么的
 作者duke5d 
 IP地址*.120.160.14 
 时间08-11-22 11:52:44
 

外皮看都很好,但是内部有没有进沙子碎石就比较难监测了.

平时已经很注意不让人踩了,但是攀冰时总有人不注意冰爪会绊到.

不知道绳子有没有硬伤,所以心里一直觉得不靠谱...



这个贴子最后由 duke5d 2008年11月22日 11:54:01 编辑

 

    
 主题暂时没指望,工业探伤机又太贵。
 作者jjyfoot 
 IP地址*.116.152.99 
 时间08-11-26 03:48:44
 



OLD SOLDIERS NEVER DIE. THEY JUST FADE AWAY----DOUGLAS MacATHER
MEMORY OF KRISTIAN

 

    
 主题如果租用一天是5000块 集中探100条绳子 也值了...
 作者duke5d 
 IP地址*.116.147.134 
 时间08-11-26 08:10:22
 

问题是技术上如何实现,技术上实现了再找需求降低成本是相对容易的.

毕竟绳子就是生命....每年让我花50块钱探下我肯定出 呵呵


 

    
 主题地铁安检的X光机如何?
 作者SG1SGA 
 IP地址*.232.104.62 
 时间08-11-26 14:43:49
 



call me SG1

 

    
 主题没戏,精度不够。
 作者jjyfoot 
 IP地址*.116.151.13 
 时间08-11-28 05:39:29
 



OLD SOLDIERS NEVER DIE. THEY JUST FADE AWAY----DOUGLAS MacATHER
MEMORY OF KRISTIAN

 

    
 主题基本检查很简单
 作者mh 
 IP地址*.226.169.147 
 时间08-11-26 15:42:53
 

用手指把绳子从头到尾,用拇指和中指把绳子套在食指上窝一遍,好的绳子比较硬,能窝成一两个绳子直径的圈,里面有问题的部分会很软,很容易窝成直径很小的圈,或直接按扁成180度。
冰爪踩过和踢过的绳子经常是没事的,但要按上面说的检查一遍。正规绳子一般使用,出现断裂一般是石头砸的,切割从外面能看出来,但在尖角上屡次受强力从外面看不出来,但按上面的方法检查出来。爬长的自然路线要养成经常检查的习惯,由其是技术登山时,因为绳子可能是在你没注意时候被砸了。

绳子多次严重坠落(死磕线路时)会逐渐丧失弹性,虽然不会断,但是会越来越不舒服。

另外绳子被酸泡了就完蛋了,而且看不出来。Todd Skinner我估计就是死在这上。

我记得至少有一次报告用新国产的绳子当路绳,在山上发现绳子中间竟然是断的。没有认证的绳子我不清楚失效模式是怎样,是制造工艺还是材料的问题谁也不清楚,但我知道厂家知道出了问题他们也容易躲过去,出了事,只要说不能证明使用者使用得当就可以了。使用这种绳子的心情就好像“不怕贼偷就怕贼惦记着”:不怕绳子一用就断,就怕绳子不知道什么时候断。

你不用想高科技探伤,要是那么容易厂家就去作了。真正达到ISO9000的厂子如果能自己按照UIAA程序测试(低科技)那也是很好的,但首先我对国内号称达到ISO9000不太相信,而且好像还没有谁有兴趣按照UIAA程序测试吧。

 

    
 主题严重感谢mh!!!
 作者duke5d 
 IP地址*.117.161.190 
 时间08-11-28 10:07:43
 

这个检查方法很实用! 我回家检查绳子去.

ISO9000我们自己又在做了,来检查的时候按流程来,人一走.....怎么顺手怎么来.所以我说我不信任这些认证机构 哈哈哈哈
 

    
 主题Todd Skinner 和 Dan Osman的事故调查结果
 作者janeclimber 
 IP地址*.242.121.93 
 时间08-11-27 10:49:25
 

Todd Skinner死于安全带的吊环断裂(安全带磨损非常严重,早已超过了正常的服役年龄),和绳子没有关系。Todd Skinner 非常扣门,经常用陈旧不堪的装备,省了四十块钱,英年早逝。

Dan Osman最后一次蹦极用的绳子超过700英尺长,绳子没有仔细地盘好,跳跃后有部分绳子互相磨擦生热,导致尼龙绳的熔断(尼龙的熔点220-260C)。



 

    
 主题是说Skinner的吊环也许和酸蚀有关,说明绳子等尼龙制品怕酸蚀
 作者mh 
 IP地址*.226.169.147 
 时间08-11-27 13:43:09
 

用十多年甚至老安全带的人我见过不少同伴用,尼龙主体断裂这是头次听说。
 

    
 主题Todd Skinner的安全带经检查没有发现任何酸蚀的证据
 作者janeclimber 
 IP地址*.219.241.188 
 时间08-12-01 04:26:21
 

Skinner's Harness shows no signs of contamination

Quoted in full from Jackson Hole Daily

www.jhnewsandguide.com

By Angus M Thuermer Jr.
September 15, 2007

An investigation of the climbing harness that failed and sent Lander, Wyo. climber Todd Skinner plunging to his death in Yosemite National Park last October found no signs of contamination that might have weakened the safety webbing.

The report by Yosemite ranger M. Faherty has been awaited by climbers worldwide who were stunned by the death of Skinner, a well-known pioneer, and the unusual failure of his safety gear. The Jackson Hole News & Guide obtained a copy of the report Friday through the Freedom of Information Act.

Climbers know that a critical part of the nylon webbing harness, a belay loop, broke and caused Skinner, 47, to fall 800 feet from the overhanging wall of Leaning Tower. At the time of his death, Skinner was descending the face after a day of climbing, sliding down a rope using a friction device linked to the belay loop.

Climbers also know that Skinner’s harness was worn, that his climbing partner, James Hewitt, commented on its poor condition, and that Skinner agreed the harness needed replacing.

Skinner was wearing an Arc’Teryx Targa harness. Tests of new belay loops similar to the one on Skinner’s harness, which were conducted by another climbing equipment manufacturer, showed them to be strong enough to hold body weight, even when cut most of the way through.

Climbers wondered whether Skinner’s harness might have been contaminated and weakened by a foreign substance. The Park Service report found no evidence of that.

Faherty wrote in his investigation that he sent the torn belay loop to Rhodia/Nexis Fibers in Switzerland for a chemical analysis. “On 06/15/07, I was notified by Rhodia representative Elman Ernst that ‘apart from the residues of the original spin-finish, no substances could be extracted from [the] analysed part of the loop’. ...” the report says

Also, Faherty’s report discounts the possibility that animals may have gnawed on the harness when it was cached. Skinner left his harness overnight at the base of the climb, stored in a bag. “There was no sign of tampering by animals or people,” Faherty wrote.

The report comes to no conclusion as to why the belay loop broke. Faherty makes several observations, however, that could lead climbers to a conclusion.

Skinner’s partner reiterated in interviews with rangers that he observed the loop “had been about 20 percent worn through three days prior,” to the accident. Faherty wrote that he, too, “also observed that the harness was extremely frayed and worn where the belay loop should run through the ‘swami belt’ and the leg loops.”

“The belay loop appeared worn near where it was torn,” Faherty wrote. “The actual torn section appeared frayed. I could see no fusing of Nylon fibers suggestive of a shock load...”

Faherty also found a sling girth-hitched to the broken belay loop, which Hewitt believed had been in place for some time and prevented the belay loop from rotating and absorbing wear evenly. “Also broken was the keeper strap on the leg loops,” ranger Faherty wrote. Loss of the keeper strap would free the leg loops to saw against belay loop, often in the same spot, given Skinner’s harness set-up.

Those observations support climber Will Gadd’s theory, published in a recent issue of Outside magazine, that the sawing leg loops contributed to the belay loop’s failure.
 

    
 主题多谢。没找到明显原因,这很令人不安!
 作者mh 
 IP地址*.226.169.147 
 时间08-12-05 15:44:49